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Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

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bucko170

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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post29 Mar 2010, 17:51

Oh Eck :eek:

The Dremmel has taken care of most of that :oops:

There is just under half a pad visible hopefully I can get a contact still might be able to drop a little solder on there to increase the chances.

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Had a play with the crystal. Not quite sure about the logo though!

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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post29 Mar 2010, 18:14

I have taken care of the spring it is now back where it should be!

SUCCESS:: The read switch is working when tested outside the case with a magnet it is activating the various functions....phew ~:( ............still along way to go though.

I need to attach the read more securely then attach the other side, try in the case etc, etc ~:(

I have ran out of time today, hopefully get back to it tomorrow.

Any idea where I could take the case to have the inner step ground, milled or drilled out?

Thanks !!
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bruce wegmann

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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post29 Mar 2010, 18:50

DON'T MILL THE CASE! It's an unnecessary step...Jeff nearly ruined his case doing that. Cosmetically, having the display sit a sixteenth of an inch closer to the crystal makes no difference to the brightness or readability. The important part is getting the reeds to work properly in the case...better to concentrate on that. BTW, what's with the PULSAR logo? Not sure what that's about...should read HAMILTON, of course. I have a local guy here who's willing to try putting lettering on plastic and metal, just as a fun exercise, but at his convenience [so the time frame is a bit uncertain]. If he can do it, it will be glorious, and worth the wait [so, stay tuned].
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J Thomas

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Re: : Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post29 Mar 2010, 19:47

:-D
Last edited by J Thomas on 30 Mar 2011, 06:50, edited 1 time in total.
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post29 Mar 2010, 21:23

For that reason, you probably cannot use the long heavy wire leads


Ahhhh....I was still struggling soldering the reads into position so I have used silver epoxy instead. Maybe I will get lucky.

Is silver epoxy ok to use, seemed easier for me to work with, just have to be patient waiting for it to set.

what's with the PULSAR logo? Not sure what that's about...should read HAMILTON, of course. I have a local guy here who's willing to try putting lettering on plastic and metal, just as a fun exercise


Same reason just having a bit fun, it's only adhesive lettering so it won't last for ever even if I wanted it to - there are to many letters in Hamilton, so I opted for Pulsar instead.

I Do Not recommend milling


Ok no milling - that's one job less :lol:

Still struggling with the soldering and there is getting less and less to solder to on the one side as the trace keeps retreating - at the moment I would be happy to see the module working and responding to the reads.

What am I doing wrong with the soldering? I am using liquid flux, and I have tried 'tinning' the leads to the read I have also removed the protective layer from the PCB. The solder seems to go on OK but comes away with the slightest knock and removes a little of the trace each time, I have not had much practice at soldering - is it just my lack of experience showing or is there something I could be doing wrong? I think using the wire to the reads would be better as there would be less pull on the joints when adjusting the reads.


................Just thinking about the lay out of the module the contacts are mirrored on each side, the trace from the one side feeds back to the contact on the opposite side - right? So if I lose the trace on one side I could solder a wire from the read to the opposite side and stretch it over to work with the other command, it might be more difficult but would give me a second chance with the soldering.
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post30 Mar 2010, 19:37

End of story......The module is dead. :evil: :cry:

Or so I thought, had another close look and found some of the solder had slipped onto the opposite side of the board and was shorting out......removed the excess solder and the module is back.
~:(
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post31 Mar 2010, 02:01

Just a thought here Bucko... maybe for the logo on your crystal you can use just and "H" in the corner - to signify Hamiton. Maybe an italic capital H ?
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post31 Mar 2010, 03:18

Just a thought here Bucko... maybe for the logo on your crystal you can use just and "H" in the corner - to signify Hamiton. Maybe an italic capital H ?


Cheers LEDluvr, sounds like a good idea, I did consider doing that but there is no italic letting in the package, I have plenty of spare letters so I will continue to experiment, although I will probably just leave it without a logo.
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post31 Mar 2010, 08:01

Hi Bucko.
I like to scrape everything clean with a razor blade........don't get too heavy-handed on PCB traces though.
Then apply some flux to the conductor, then with a drop of solder on my iron, I touch the fluxed area, and the solder should immediately adhere. Do this to both things you're trying to attach together (in your case I think it'd be a PCB trace and a reed switch wire). Then, with both conductors 'tinned', hold the two together and apply the iron again.........they should immediately flow together.

Rgds,
Andrew.
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Re: : Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post31 Mar 2010, 08:24

bucko170 wrote:
Just a thought here Bucko... maybe for the logo on your crystal you can use just and "H" in the corner - to signify Hamiton. Maybe an italic capital H ?


Cheers LEDluvr, sounds like a good idea, I did consider doing that but there is no italic letting in the package, I have plenty of spare letters so I will continue to experiment, although I will probably just leave it without a logo.


If you're good with the blade, you could cut out the Hamilton logo:

Image

Glad to hear your module is still up and running, Mick!
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post31 Mar 2010, 18:36

There you go! Start with a fat capital H, and then start whittling away. :-)
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post09 Apr 2010, 01:22

:-D
Last edited by J Thomas on 30 Mar 2011, 06:51, edited 1 time in total.
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post09 Apr 2010, 10:53

Thanks Jeff, glad everything got to you OK and thank you for offering to come to my rescue it is much appreciated.
The case looks superb, lots better than I was able to achieve with the Dremmel.
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post30 Apr 2010, 23:28

:-D
Last edited by J Thomas on 30 Mar 2011, 06:51, edited 1 time in total.
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post01 May 2010, 01:08

WOW They look absolutely superb, thank you for completing the project for me and for the excellent job that you have done. I can't wait to show them off.

Thanks again for all your efforts Jeff it is much appreciated.
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post01 May 2010, 01:38

Very nice work there JThomas.
Now I want one!

:mrgreen:
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post01 May 2010, 05:11

Nice work Jeff.
Just wondering how the piezo buzzers sound ? Normally there's holes in the caseback to let the sound out, but obviously in this case there isn't.

Rgds.
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post01 May 2010, 16:20

:-D
Last edited by J Thomas on 30 Mar 2011, 06:52, edited 1 time in total.
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post03 May 2010, 19:51

Thank you for offering your services JThomas. :-D
I'd like to take you up on this once I can find a watch with the correct module (I have the list of makes from the other thread)
and the reed switches.

For those of us interested in this project....
I figure the most likely source for the watch is ebay (both the Pulsar case and the new LED watch).
But were to find the reed switches?
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post14 May 2010, 03:01

FYI everyone,
there is a suitable 'brain donor' on ebay right now. It's a Lucky brand LED watch and it's in RED. Personally I'm looking for the blue, but I thought I'd share in case anyone is interseted....

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-NIB-LUCKY-BRAND ... 2397872426
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post14 May 2010, 07:09

Both the watches arrived in today's post!

Thank you Jeff for an excellent job and for the great service, both watches are absolutely superb, I will post some photo's once I have finished making the green crystal.

Also thanks to Mike for the help and assistance during the project, even though I didn't succeed it was very much appreciated.
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: Frankenstein's revenge; Mike's MIB Date Command Redux

Post16 May 2010, 00:21

Amazon UK has a white display Evisu 'Habara' on sale at £37.74 & a blue one on sale at £42.23 if anyone is still looking for one to convert.
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