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Doing a "Higgie" on a Pulsar

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digibloke

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Doing a "Higgie" on a Pulsar

Post01 Nov 2005, 14:45

Hi. I'd like to try and revive a Pulsar 3013 module in a similar (yet far less professional) manner to that undertaken by Higgie on his synchronar in the previous thread.

I was wondering whether anyone has any thoughts on what would make the best donor module. Are there any relatively inexpensive led's which would have a Sanyo module or a national semiconductor module in them for example?

Any help whatsoever would be very much appreciated before I wreak havoc on my dead P3 module.

Thanks, digibloke.
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Higgie

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Re: Doing a "Higgie" on a Pulsar

Post01 Nov 2005, 20:06

Before killing your original module, please make sure it can't be repaired.
If it is (sometimes) showing "0" or "1", then mostlikely the module can be repaired.
If it is showing strange random digits -no numbers- then it is most likely dead.
Any module that fits the watch can be a donor.
This P2 has a NSC module in it and works great.
( allthough the digits are a bit maller )

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digibloke

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Re: Doing a "Higgie" on a Pulsar

Post02 Nov 2005, 00:18

Hi, thanks for the advice. I think it's pretty much a R.I.P module - the same two bars light when a magnet is placed by any of the reeds. It does a strange flashing on and off thing with a stronger magnet which I at first thought might be setting mode - but now I think that was just blind optimism...

The display and the transistors (apart from one) are fine so I guess they're just not getting the juice they need.

I bought it off ebay a while back with the description "has some dead segments" (yeah like 23 of them!) - It was around that time I became much more careful with descriptions :wink:

I have ladies National Semiconductor module which I was thinking of trying but I think it could be a bit strange with "day date" in a P3. Then again, once it's not original anymore, why the heck not?
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Higgie

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Re: Doing a "Higgie" on a Pulsar

Post02 Nov 2005, 01:01

Yes, sounds like a dead module..
Some hints:
When removing the pcb from the back-plate, leave the reed-switches in place, you need them later.
You can also leave the X-tal in place and remove the one on the new module.

When using a 2 button module, use the Hr reed-switch to set the watch then you will not by accident activate both the set and the command button with your magnet.
( some modules "reset" if you do this )
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digibloke

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Re: Doing a "Higgie" on a Pulsar

Post02 Nov 2005, 01:31

Thanks for the advice, I'm kind of looking at it like this.

If it works I have a nice looking watch that works.

If I mess up I'm down one dead module and one working module which I'm never gonna use for anything else. (and I get to swear a lot).

(I hope it's option 1)

DB
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Re: Doing a "Higgie" on a Pulsar

Post04 Nov 2005, 04:39

Higgie,
Is there a specific NSC module that is required, or will all of the men's modules work? Thanks
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Higgie

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Re: Doing a "Higgie" on a Pulsar

Post04 Nov 2005, 18:22

Any module that fits the case will do, not only NSC.
The circuit board of the module has to fit on the front of the Pulsars "backplate" (or whatever it is called.)
You have to check the diameter and the thickness of the new module.
Just try it.
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azimuth_pl

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Re: Doing a "Higgie" on a Pulsar

Post04 Feb 2006, 19:57

here is my version, a quick job and surprisingly with proper dot-matrix display from a John Doe (un-named) donor.
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Re: Doing a "Higgie" on a Pulsar

Post16 Mar 2006, 23:26

Hello,

an instruction for replacing a Pulsar P3 module by a NSC modul is given on my site under:

http://www.digitalwatches.de/DEUTSCH_REPARATUREN.htm

Unfortunately the text is written in German, but the pictures should be self explaining. Sorry for this! Thanks!

Greeetings

digitalwatches

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