FR 2007 module (or equivalent) help please.

[retroleds]

Egaads! that one sure got cooked by the acid!. Not sure if that loose capacitor goes to that module, but it is obvious the trimmer(little round guy with green(corroded) screw on top, has one whole leg/connector chewed off. Perhaps he was trapped and chewed his leg off to free himself from the approaching acid(joke). Foxes and coyotes will do that.

[bucko170]

Perhaps he was trapped and chewed his leg off to free himself from the approaching acid(joke). Foxes and coyotes will do that.

Yes I image that is just how it happened.

[rewolf]

I can't see a place for the lose capacitor to go, but there is one part of the board that's not on the pictures, namely to the right of the quartz crystal (on the very top of the 6th picture something is visible, also traces of acid - can we have i picture including this area?).
The one-legged trimmer should be replaced, either with a new trimmer or fixed capacitor ~18pF. The lose capacitor is quite likely still ok, can be soldered back into position (wherever this is).
It doesn't look like any PCB traces are gone (maybe below the "R" in "FR2007"?), so there's some little hope left.
The quartz crystal is probably damaged, it shows signs of corrosion...

[clockace]

this is the module i have. the little loose piece[capacitor?] on mine goes right where the FR2007 is on the pcb. one end is blocking the FR on mine but the 2007 is plainly seen. there was next to no corrosion on mine, which is probably why i got lucky. i am not that good on figuring out the vagaries of electronics. . by the way i found the 301's to be too thick. the metal shield that snaps on the back would keep popping off. i am using 344's. working fine. peter

[Ole Joe]

The module was fitted with 2 new batteries marked "Varta V301".

301s are pretty thin...doubt they would make proper contact. And you realize that both the springs protruding from the module have to touch the caseback(and the caseback has to be in solid contact with the case body) for it to have any chance of working? Actually, the spring that is offcenter is the one that has to make contact with the case body for any setting or display to happen...the other is just for the alarm buzzer. And if you pulled the front plastic off the module and dumped the circuit board out, it would be a good idea to lightly clean the contact areas on the circuit board where the 4 rubber contacts touch it. And without the board in good contact with those rubber pads, which are electrically conductive, you'll still; be getting nothing. Gently nudge the rubber pads upward in their slots before reassembling and wipe the contact surface with a little rubbing alcohol to clean off any residue of the years that is breaking good contact.. It may very well still be a good one.

Hope this helps...are we back on thread?

The above information concerning the springs being in contact with the caseback is TOTALLY IN ERROR. Those two springs make contact to the piezo crystal, the outer one to the brass substrate, the inner one to the silver plated piezo crystal. The brass substrate MUST BE ELECTRICALLY ISOLATED from any part of the watch case. In other words, the piezo unit as a whole, is electrically "floating" from the watch case. If there is contact between the spring/s and the case, the module has a very good chance of locking up and not working, making it appear that the module is bad. (If the module goes into a lockup mode, a lot of current will be drained from the batteries.) It is suggested that if you are having a problem with the alarm module to first check for continuity between the brass plate and the case/case back. The reason for the isolation of the piezo element and the case was to double the signal level driving the piezo, whcih increased the audio output for a louder alarm. Since the two batteries in series would only yield a 3 volt swing of the signal, it was decided to drive the element in a "push-pull" fashion which then doubled the swing to 6 volts. Hope this will help someone experiencing problems with a Frontier Alarm Module.

[retroleds]

!

[clockace]

the 301's are working. after i had it all done i realized that maybe a previous battery change was done using 301's and the 2 tabs on the s/s plate had been bent down to make contact. if i had bent them back up the plate would have stayed snapped on. anyway it all worked out well. the time and date functions work and the alarm is settable and works as well. when [if[ it comes back for a cell change i will use the 386's which probably will last longer as well. peter

[Kasper]

btw thx Ole Joe for the good explanation in your first post...You have to do it more often

and welcome offcourse to our forum.