Regarding the 357 batteries fitting tight in a PUlsar(mentioned in Dennis' article) - use 386s and bend your tabs on the back cover down just a bit, which will take a lot of strain off the module of your Pulsar. Also, consider removing the module hold-down screws. Not needed, and they put considerable bending stress on the module....a dab of silicone if you don't want it to float out when changing battereis(ALWAYS let silicone cure before sealing a watch, gives off a little acid while curing).
Myself, I'll continue to buy alkalines for their lower price, and because I actually prefer their slightly more gradual power "drop-off" curve. And I don't see leakage problems with modern alkalines that I still see with silver oxides. A light wipe with a contact protectant is a good idea whether changing battereies or storing "empty"; otherwise, you have to wear the contacts down repeatedly(like on a Hughes with the aluminum contact pads) through the act of cleaning.
Name brand(Renata) Silver Ox. batteries are
$.72 each if you buy at least 25, thru
www.mouser.com vs. $4.39+ EACH at a Radio Shack or department store jewelry counter.
I vote for storing empty, if only to avoid the "green death". If your piece doesn't fire up right away after extended storage, leave batteries in for at least a day, and try activating the setting sequence at least once or twice. Some watches need to accumilate a certain "head voltage" before deciding to wake back up. Ditto after changing a quartz crystal.
Odd tid-bit: Litronix - many(primarily small bore 25-26mm) of their modules had a circuit which prevents them from running
after a battery change, until the setting sequence has been activated......so they could ship them with charged batteries, with less worry of battery drain.
http://www.retroleds.com -
Sales of vintage LED, LCD, analog watches,
parts and gadgets -
repair tutorials & tips
Nov. 2022 - back in business!! BItter divorce is in home stretch, come grabs some great deals, I had to open the safe . . . damn attorneys. piss.