Troubled P2 Modules

[coconutman351]

Aloha, haven't posted here for awhile but have been reading the interesting threads, especially the recent P1 auction.

I wanted to solicit ideas on possibly salvaging two partially working P2 modules.

Module 1: P2 Time Only Function
Issue: When installing new batteries the module briefly displays time then is stuck on displaying seconds. Initially when I received the watch the display was in the stuck "0" display and I found out one of the leads from the crystal was detached from the module. I resoldered it and now it behaves as if the time button is permanatly on. I tested the reed switch and it works fine, I even removed the reed switch and it still displays the second count. I'm not sure if I'm close to fixing this of if it's a logic chip issue.

Module 2: P2 Date and Time
Issue: All functions work fine, except the display constantly blinks for a ms every second. When pressing the time button, the time and seconds are displayed but the short blinking continues. If I enable the date function the date stays solid on until i release the date button. When the button is released the display continues to blink. Tried bypassing the internal oscillator with an external one, but still same issue.

Any ideas you might have would be appreciated. Has anyone experienced modules that behave in this manner?

Regards,
Robert
Honolulu HI

[coconutman351]

I also saw the previous thread on malfunctioning P2 modules. Perhaps I should give both modules a wash in the suggested Vinegar/Water/Alcohol? The blinking module used to work fine, until one day it started blinking until the batteries died.

[bruce wegmann]

I have never been able to successfully repair a module with either of these issues. I'm guessing it's a problem internal to the clock chip, as no manipulation of external parts ever made the slightest difference. If someone out there has found a magic bullet for these symptoms, now would be a good time to speak up...

[coconutman351]

Thanks Bruce appreciate your reply. As far as I'm concerned you are the reference source for my Pulsar questions.

Well I took a chance and did the soak clean for both modules. I didn't have vinegar so I just soaked them in alcohol. I actually soaked both of the modules then took it out and sprayed more alcohol to drain any residue that may have been undone. Well to my surprise my date and time module with the blinking display was restored back to normal. Amazing. My other module interestingly went the other direction, instead of having the counting seconds it had the infamous "0" stationary digit. I tried replacing the crystal and oscillator but no cigar. I might try again to revive it as I almost had it running, never give up!

I will post a photo of the restored GF P2 that I just bought it on ebay for 150.00 as it was listed as not working, however the case was in decent shape, not mint but good enough. I just finished apply epoxy and glued my crystal after the case restoration. I'm now gluing the bow tie battery spring on the case back. I should be done this evening (morning) and will post photos. This forum rocks, I would have never washed my modules in alcohol...and fixed it.

taker care all!
Robert

[bruce wegmann]

OK then, we may have a cure, but we don't know why it works, because we don't know what part was affected. So, it may last, and it might not... In the meantime, cherish every second of proper operation you get... Come to think of it, I had a "blinker" that only operated right when heated to scalding temperatures; even when still too hot to handle, it would start up again. Nothing else I could do had any effect at all.

[coconutman351]

Here are the "before" shots, interesting that the case back does not have "Time Computer" just 14K Goldfilled. Will post the before shots.

[coconutman351]

Here are the "after" shots. Ok it's 12:50 am, time for bed time. Sorry for the super sized photos and for some reason it kept uploading upside down.

[coconutman351]

Bruce, you are so right, these original modules are 40+ years old. Every time our display lights up as it did 40+ years ago is a blessing! And yes, my blinking display may reoccur but I do recall now that it started after several very humid days here. That might have been enough for some organic material to produce enough of a low resistivity to impact the circuit performance. For now I'm enjoying my P2 GF and revived module 1 of 2. I'll continue to work on the other one and keep you all posted.

Aloha!
Robert

[clockace]

You may need a new caseback gasket. I have a date command that exhibited the same display after humid days. I did not have the retaining ring very tight and corrected the problem by snugging it down tighter. I also have had some success with the vinegar/water/alcohol bath. Not always tho'. The last one went to Bruce for a replacement mod after the bath gave no joy. Peter

[coconutman351]

Yes, I think your right. I need to really update all my Pulsars with new gaskets. Regarding the watch, what's interesting is the case back only says "14K goldfilled" not "time computer" like all my other Pulsars. Is this a common thing?

[bruce wegmann]

All P2s are marked either "stainless steel", "14K goldfilled', "14K gold", or "14 Karat gold". A rare variant is marked "10K goldilled". I will reserve judgement on a possible 18K version until I see one. In any event, none carry "Pulsar" or "Time Computer" markings.
Those made their first appearance on the P3 models. Unfortunately, P3 case backs fit P2 cases (and vice versa), and I see such mixes of parts on eBay fairly often; sellers invariably have no clue...

[coconutman351]

So many interesting historical references to this watch, it's amazing. By the way Bruce there is one watch on ebay listed with the 10K goldfilled marking on the back cover serial number 17562. However, to your point about the interchangeable covers, there's no way to confirm all parts are original to that particular watch. I'm just glad the GF P2 I restored is consistent with how it left the factory.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pulsar-P2-Vinta ... 419a8a32e5

[coconutman351]

All, just an update. Since soaking both modules in alcohol module 2: Date and Time module has been working flawlessly. On the other hand not much luck with module 1: problem is I feel like a fix is sooooo close yet may not be able to be resolved. Current situation, since soaking in alcohol, when installing new batteries the time is displayed briefly then it goes into the seconds display, as if the time buttion is constantly enabled. I removed the reed switch to isolate it but with the reed switch completely off it continues to display the time and seconds when powering up the module. I also tried applying freeze mist while the module was on but no effect, so it's not a thermal issue, it appears the time function is permanately stuck on.

I'm at a lost but don't want to give up so soon. Any ideas from the community would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,
Robert

[bucko170]

Would it be worth sacrificing a couple of batteries, leave them in and see if the fault rights itself and give it a combination of the hot and cold treatment as well.

[bruce wegmann]

So many interesting historical references to this watch, it's amazing. By the way Bruce there is one watch on ebay listed with the 10K goldfilled marking on the back cover serial number 17562. However, to your point about the interchangeable covers, there's no way to confirm all parts are original to that particular watch. I'm just glad the GF P2 I restored is consistent with how it left the factory.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pulsar-P2-Vinta ... 419a8a32e5

Actually, the watch in this auction is almost certainly completely original. But, in general, given the number of years that have passed, unless you can document the entire history of the watch, from the time it left the jewelry store, the best you can say is that the parts are correct for the model.
On P2s, ALL serial numbers above 100000 are followed by the "A" mark (otherwise, they would duplicate and conflict with P3 numbers; theoretically, you could have a number, say, 126759, that could occur in both series, one with the "A", one without, but you would still know which one had been on which model). I have seen P2s with serial numbers as high as 147000A, so there are possibly many thousands of "overlapping" numbers...anyone have a matched pair? I have never seen, or heard of, a P2 with a four-digit or less number, so it's a safe bet that the lowest-possible P2 serial is 10001. Highest serial without the "A" I have is 56595, lowest with it, 38483. Within that span, there are low numbers with it, higher without it, and vice versa...why that's happening is anybody's guess, now. It's been suggested that the "A" is an abbreviation for "Astronaut", but, if that were true, why weren't they all marked that way? At least, all the stainless steel ones; the goldfilled ones were sometimes called the "Executive", and the solid gold models were the "VIP".
BTW, the serial numbers on all 10K-marked case backs fall in this narrow range around 17xxx (I have number 17658), so, unless significantly higher or lower number surface, it seems unlikely there were more than about a thousand made. Similarly, the Hamilton-marked backs tend to occur around 11xxx.

[coconutman351]

Bruce, I'm always impressed by your knowledge of the Pulsar watches. I know it's off topic but how did you ever get started collecting these watches? For me as a kid all I could do was look at these watches through the showcases at the jewelers shop and admire them thinking "one day....". The only LED watch I could afford was a Sears Robuck brand and it was a display model. Bought my first Pulsar on ebay back in 2007-2008 and as you know you can't just own one. Reading this forum I've learned so much, from case refinishing to repairing modules to now knowledge of the case back serial numbers. Here is my collection...so far....

The Sears Robuck case in the middle is what started it all. Module works but I can't find my crystal that came of years ago. The Stainless P2 Date Time is a case only and one that I hope I can revive should I get my P2 module problem resolved. Only one P2 GF I had to install an external oscillator chip, all others are original modules.

For the Seiko LCD, I wanted to restore a really misused Seiko, refinished the case and polished the glass lens. Finally the TAG that's so misplaced in this photo, well it's the first genuine "Swiss" watch to own.

My other watch hobbies are mechanical movements. I've played with an ETA 2428, Asian 7753 module among others.

[charger105]

You've probably already figured this out, but the track shown below in red must be shorting to battery + somehow:

p2.png

Not obvious where this could be occurring on the board, but might be worth giving the track a good clean anyway.
It's probably shorting under the square ceramic IC cover.......maybe some battery residue.

With the module depowered, what is the resistance between the red track and battery + ?
Rgds.

[coconutman351]

Thanks for the suggestion, sounds like that is the issue, I'll check the voltage on the red segment as you suggested it's probably shorted to the battery source causing the time/second function to display continuously. Thanks for the suggestion, will update with what I find. I may have to flush the board out with contact cleaner or something to remove residue that's probably under the ceramic chip.

[coconutman351]

Update on my last posting. I measured the voltage on the chip pin that connects to the magnetic reed switch and I did find some voltage about 0.18 volts, not nearly what I would have expected, so there must be something shorted either underneath the chip or internally. I did notice the chip randomly goes into several modes when powering up the module. One time the hour set function kept running, another time it's the time display and continuous seconds. I'm about to throw in the towel and call it for this module. Should I need to revive my SS P2 date time at least I have options for an modern replacement, still nothing beats an original module.

thanks all for the help and suggestions. Silver lining is at least 1 of the 2 modules was revived and continues to work flawlessly.

Robert