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Synchronar 2100 Mark 3

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Synchroserious

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: Synchronar 2100 Mark 3

Post12 Mar 2009, 03:39

Thanks for the responses.It is photomask work i am referring to.Some of the other Jargon i am not familiar with.I have Mk V drawings on floppy disc,Cd,s and a wall size drawing along with several 20" by 40"(just a guess) drawings never taped together that have the specs.I think there is only 12 layers.Trouble there is my father always left 4 different masks with the photomask people and never would tell them which one was the good one.Just another protective measure he took to prevent anyone from stealing his work.He did put 5 years into all the drawings so i hope one day it can be more than wall art.

Fronz, I have friend who has an 18 year old son just into the military that talks about airsoft stuff all the time.He would love to chat about that hobby and what you make.All i know is he takes them apart and fixes them.
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charger105

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: Synchronar 2100 Mark 3

Post12 Mar 2009, 10:20

This has become a very interesting thread. Thank you J Thomas and Howard for your recollections.
Anyway, for those interested, here is the encapsulated IC MkIII board I promised yesterday. It actually looks the same as a MkI or MkII chip. Alas, I can get no signs of life from it !


http://www.dwf.nu/Gallery/displayimage. ... play_media


Rgds,
Andrew.
Last edited by charger105 on 23 Mar 2012, 16:12, edited 1 time in total.
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retroleds

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: Synchronar 2100 Mark 3

Post12 Mar 2009, 16:55

Howard:

Ok, I understand not encapsulating the style IC charger shows, that looks quite do-able to pop those off and recycle. I was thinking about this style, with the IC wirebonded to the board.
http://www.dwf.nu/Gallery/displayimage.php?album=23&pos=8

Fortunately, this one works great, just needs to have the battery wires redone and to be packaged back up. You can see at lower left where some of the green death crept under that rubbery coating(not potting gel, more like silicone or urethane). Hey, since so many of the Synchronars have been separated from their paperwork and nobody seems to know which feature set matches what model number, maybe on a seperate thread you could give us some of the identifying layouts on the inside. For example on the ICs: I've got the directly wirebonded IC, the soldered package like charger shows, the ones with the large gold-covered IC smack in the middle of the board. You give us some details and I will be happy to make a nice permanent page with pictures and maybe even links to the directions for the different models. Even if done in bits and pieces, it would be a nice thing to have - collectors long after we both are gone would be grateful, I'm sure.
http://www.retroleds.com - Sales of vintage LED, LCD, analog watches, parts and gadgets - repair tutorials & tips
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Re: : Synchronar 2100 Mark 3

Post12 Mar 2009, 18:11

retroleds wrote:Howard:

Ok, I understand not encapsulating the style IC charger shows, that looks quite do-able to pop those off and recycle. I was thinking about this style, with the IC wirebonded to the board.
http://www.dwf.nu/Gallery/displayimage.php?album=23&pos=8

Fortunately, this one works great, just needs to have the battery wires redone and to be packaged back up. You can see at lower left where some of the green death crept under that rubbery coating(not potting gel, more like silicone or urethane). Hey, since so many of the Synchronars have been separated from their paperwork and nobody seems to know which feature set matches what model number, maybe on a seperate thread you could give us some of the identifying layouts on the inside. For example on the ICs: I've got the directly wirebonded IC, the soldered package like charger shows, the ones with the large gold-covered IC smack in the middle of the board. You give us some details and I will be happy to make a nice permanent page with pictures and maybe even links to the directions for the different models. Even if done in bits and pieces, it would be a nice thing to have - collectors long after we both are gone would be grateful, I'm sure.



Ed,We are talking about salvaging chips directly mounted and wire bonded to board.I just made mention as a side note that there are some MK III's that have chips housed inside a package.Thanks charger for the photo!

Gel is just the easiest word to use but it means the same as rubbery substance,snotty gel,potting material,potting compound,polymer and so on.But it is in fact GE RTV Silicone(varying grades) from 1972-1996.Since 1996 it has been types of urethane/polyurethane pre polymer.

The details will all be shown one day.I will only be 42 later this month so worrying about photos for collectors from Missouri to look at when i pass is the last priority at this time.

Chips in the middle of the board are MK I or MK II(which i think is pretty well known by now) and have many on board transistors and parts.The MK III/IV is a more robust design because all those extra parts are part of the chip so you will not have to even think about replacing them. ;-)
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J Thomas

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: Synchronar 2100 Mark 3 -salvaging chips

Post12 Mar 2009, 19:21

:-D
Last edited by J Thomas on 30 Mar 2011, 04:40, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: : Synchronar 2100 Mark 3

Post12 Mar 2009, 19:39

:-D
Last edited by J Thomas on 30 Mar 2011, 04:40, edited 1 time in total.
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: Synchronar 2100 Mark 3

Post12 Mar 2009, 19:58

No problem Jeff.I sent you a PM to get an email address to send you photos and because i felt posting here might be going to far off topic.

I know that my father volunteered free consulting with you over the phone on the first Nixie watch which was private.If you can't do the same for me on your free time and only wish to post here it still is helpful.

Thanks for the acetone/heat gun tip.That explains why there was a heat gun and jar of acetone near the wire bonder :-)

I also found receipts from radioshack dated July 2004 for capacitors right next to the wire bonder and some empty capacitor packages.So i have to assume he was fixing the wire bonder just 2 months prior to being hospitalized.I don't have that manual in front of me but i will post about it when i dig up the manual at another location.
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