Strange charging on an early MkI

[Sully008]

Hello all,

I have a 6 reed MkI module that seems to "reset" itself if left out to charge for too long. Even if it's on my wrist and I'm in any light that will charge the batteries/cause the display to be bright, the module will show some weird pattern then revert to 0:00 and the date to 1:01. And this occurs even when I'm not checking the time. Any suggestions?

[clockace]

hi mike, i am having a similar problem on the last 4 reed dot module i am working with. it seems to run fine when not on the wrist. i have put it under a lamp[100w bulb] for extended periods, but that does not seem to be the problem. it usually happens when i am wearing it outside. the display will go to 1 or 2 segments and then go dark. the last time it did this i quickly opened it[i only close them with scotch tape until i am sure it is right] and checked the voltage at the cells. instead of being 2.6-2.8v it was 2.3v. what the h? i have been thinking a short somewhere prior to this, but i am now not too sure. there were also other problems with this one as well. i have repaired 4 of the tab to transistor connections with silver epoxy. everything lites up and works and is settable. right now i have it under daylight[not outside, but under a skylight]. i am going to leave it there for a few days and see if it is still on the correct time and date and go from there. maybe we can open this up to the forum for more expert advice. peter howard, where are you? we need your help.

[charger105]

I've noticed that when one of my Mk1s runs out of 'gas', the display will show weird digits etc., and then just a colon, and then nothing. All the while, the timekeeping is un-affected though.
I just recharge it, and it's back to normal again.

I think this is how they were designed. When a critical low voltage is reached, the display function stops operating, but timekeeping goes on until it is recharged.

Clockace, you might have a mild short somewhere, which is prematurely draining the batteries.

Sully, not sure why yours would reset itself ? It should actually go dim in bright light (I assume this was a typo). You could try breaking the light sensor input to the IC, so that this feature no longer works, but it might stop your resetting 'feature'.

Rgds.

[Sully008]

Hi Andrew,

All of my Synchronars go brighter in light. I thought that's how the light sensor worked, so it would be easier to see in bright light conditions.

I left the watch under a lamp all last night and nothing happened, although I may have a short somewhere because if I press on the module case I can get the watch to do weird things. I'll try wearing the watch out this weekend to see if it gets affected again.

I've noticed that when one of my Mk1s runs out of 'gas', the display will show weird digits etc., and then just a colon, and then nothing. All the while, the timekeeping is un-affected though.
I just recharge it, and it's back to normal again.

I think this is how they were designed. When a critical low voltage is reached, the display function stops operating, but timekeeping goes on until it is recharged.

Clockace, you might have a mild short somewhere, which is prematurely draining the batteries.

Sully, not sure why yours would reset itself ? It should actually go dim in bright light (I assume this was a typo). You could try breaking the light sensor input to the IC, so that this feature no longer works, but it might stop your resetting 'feature'.

Rgds.

[charger105]

Yes, you are quite right........my mistake. They do dim in darkness, and brighten in sunlight.
Apologies for the confusion

Rgds.

[clockace]

actually i am not sure there is a "light sensor" per se. if there is, where is it? i always thought the display intensified when in bright light because the sc was sending more juice. otherwise it would also brighten when under flourescent light, which it will if you have it very close to the light. flourescent light does not cause the sc to charge the cells. if there is a light sensor it would need to be in a visible spot. i believe roger was working on the mkV to be very bright in sunlight by the sc circuit bypassing the cells and sending all possible power to the display. howard could probably shed more light on this. my dot has run all day perfectly, but when i had it on my wrist last night it went dead in about 2 hrs. it was not just the display off and still keeping time. it was dead. i took it off and set it aside face down so it could not recharge off of any light and it began running again in 15-20 mins. it was and still is 22 mins slow. peter

[clockace]

sure is quiet on the synchronar site. update on my dot matrix 4 reed. I HAVE FOUND THE PROBLEM! . the shorting WAS the cause of the going dead. the reason for the shorting was very simple. when i closed the case there was just enough pressure on the pcb to occasionally cause a short. when i would just let it sit it worked fine, but when i wore it it would put pressure on the red back ever so much as to short things out. what i did are 2 things. one, instead of using the new red top, i used an old one that had a mkI/II in it. the new red tops need modification inside in order to accomodate the v80 cells and the mkI/II pcb. i have never before had a problem doing this, but on this one there apparently was just enough lack of depth in the top. the older top almost competely cured the problem. the second thing i did was grind the cell cavities deeper in the red back. presto, it has been working fine now for 3 days. sets properly, charges properly, lites up properly. howard told me more than a month ago[where is he?] that that was more than likely my problem. i took his suggestions and applied them, but it wasn't quite enough to eliminate the problem. i have been working with this module since last oct. 08. the sense of accomplishment is immense. i have one more i am working on and that is the last one[lol]. it has a bad segment driver transistor. i have a pcb with 7 of those transistors on it. i should be able to get one off and use it. will keep the forum posted. mike, that could be your problem as well[the pressure on the pcb]. peter

[charger105]

Well done Peter.
I've thought about replacing those driver transistors, but have never done it. I am guessing they just 'flick' off. Will you use silver epoxy to re-attach it ? I don't think there's any other way to do it. I would use a needle to apply the epoxy precisely.

Rgds,
Andrew.

[clockace]

i was able to unsolder the bad one and a good one from a scrapper pcb i have. they do not just "flick off" tho'. there are 3 pads under the transistor. the one on the outside is larger than the other 2. i put my wahl isotip iron with the smallest tip possible on the larger one and heated with a slight back and forth motion as well as a lifting motion. it came a little loose and then i stopped and went to the other 2, same process. with the 2nd go around it came loose. i did the same with the bad one. under the pads of the bad one there were 3 tiny copper pieces. they came loose so i took them out and put a tiny dot of new solder on each pad. then i laid the good transistor on the 3 pads and heated the larger brass base while gently pressing down with a piece of pegwood. when it melted in a few seconds i stopped and did the other 2 same way. hooked my 3v power pack to the module and bingo! all segments are lit. the last tab on the chip also was loose so i connected it to its respective tab with a tiny piece of wire soldered on. i have photos that i will post as soon as i get them from my camera to my computer. peter

[Sully008]

Hey Peter,

Congrats on getting your last module working! You are correct, I probably have a short somewhere in my 6 reed module. If I press on the Lexan case I can get it to do weird things. I'll have to open it up again and make more room.

I don't know what it is with these watches, I'm pretty obessed with getting as many of these working again.

[Snetzka]

Well Mike.


There's a challenge for you on Ebay at this very moment... 300 off the little blighters... Think you might get over it after the first dozen or so.. ??

[clockace]

the problem with those is they are bits and pieces not complete modules. you would need tops, bottoms, s/s case tops, bracelets, sliders, magnets, etc. even if you did get some working, without those parts you could not build a wearable watch. it would be fun to try tho'. the price per is not that bad, but what to do with 300 of them? sure would have lots of spare parts. peter

[Sully008]

Heh,

I've been watching that auction from Barry. I have bought parts from him before, but 300 is a little out of my scope. I'd like to have the cases I have filled (I have 2 missing a working module) and maybe one or two working spares.

[fronzelneekburm]

I have seen that auction and i find it "terrible". From the pictures it is not even clear to me what hes selling exactly, looks like someone sells like 300 Synchronar module bottoms with the board silicone slime and leaked battery acid included. When i saw these i was just like "WTF?", i really really do wonder how you come across like 300 of these and have no single case, bracelet or solar cell included (Although you ant really tell from the crappy pictures).

What the hell is that and WHY? How can you come across SUCH a shitload of Synchronar parts. And how can they all look like "Beyond repair"? What happened here? Synchronar mass murder?

[bucko170]

How can you come across SUCH a shitload of Synchronar parts

By Inheriting them from your father!

Barry as in Barry Riehl.