Synchronar Mark I - Where's the problem??

10 Oct 2009, 22:42

Hi. So I started this weekend with board Nr. 2. I installed the display, removed some reed-switches from the other boards. Now I have 6 switches. Is it necessary to install all 6 switches on board Nr.2? If not, witch one do I have to install? And is there someting special in witch direction I insert the switches in the banks?

Thanks and keey in touch....!

Bye
Renato

10 Oct 2009, 22:43

...what I have noticed. There are green and white ones. Can I mix them on the same board?

Bye bye Reno

11 Oct 2009, 01:48

reno, i have a scrap mkI/II pcb in my hand that looks exactly like your #2 board. it should have 6 reeds on it. the reeds are positioned so that the short steel colored part is towards the center post. the brass colored part should be towards the outside posts. the brass colored part should be facing out, altho howard [barry's brother] told me it really doesn't matter. all i have seen the brass end faces out tho'. which display did you install? photos [good ones] would help. do you have a good qc? keep us posted. what did you mean by green and white ones? :-)

peter

11 Oct 2009, 02:37

Hi Reno.
one other thing regarding the reeds ---try to match the orientation and reed type of the original module (i.e. the one that came out of the case).
There are different types of sliders, some have very short magnets, some are longer. If the sliders are original to the original module, then matching the type and orientation of the reeds will minimise re-work.

Good luck.
Rgds.

11 Oct 2009, 03:09

Renozumi,

Have you attached a display and QC to see if the module works? I know that you've already added the reed switches, but you can check to see if a module works by bridging the reed posts with a small piece of wire.

11 Oct 2009, 09:13

Hi.

Again a lot of helpful hints. Thank you! Does it matter witch post I bridge with a wire to test the board? I made some pictures. There you can see also the reeds. The reeds on the left side seems white, the parts on the right side seems green.

http://www.majhost.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=213292

So next I'll test the display (first without soldering the pins into the board) then I connect the qc and bride the post and..... look whats happens ;-)

I'll post again - Thanks and bye
Reno

11 Oct 2009, 11:48

Hi together.
Sorry for annoying you again, but I have the next question...

To attach the display onto the board, there are 14 pins on the display. Is it correct to put the 14 pins into the market holes (see pictures) or is maybe a other mapping necessary?

http://www.majhost.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=2406687

Thanks again. You are all great! If it works, you'll all get a great original swiss cholocate - if you like them ;-)

Have a nice day
Reno

11 Oct 2009, 13:31

Hi reno.

1 and 14 are the reed switch posts.
2 and 13 are where the solar panel attaches.

The 14 pads between the above-mentioned positions are where the display attaches (you haven't numbered 4 of them). You don't insert the legs of the display through the holes....just solder to the top of the pad. The displays on a complete original module don't even have these legs. I suggest temporarily soldering the display with long legs attached to test the module.

Regarding the reed switch posts, you can bridge any of the ones on the corners to any of the centre posts.....to test functionality.

Rgds.

11 Oct 2009, 17:55

i agree with andrew. your display is a 24hr format. it should have an arrow on the back side. the arrow would point to your #2 hole. #1,13, 14 have no connection. i would get a new qc. also make sure you solder the legs in the same hole the old one came out of. they seem to vary on the ones i have worked on. maybe it doesn't matter? andrew? mike? :-)

peter

11 Oct 2009, 18:42

Renozumi,

charger105 is correct. The solder pad beside to the right of your #2 is the first contact for the display. For testing just solder the long legs of the display to the contacts. When it comes time to actually attach it, cut them down as small as possible, but leave enough to solder to the contacts. Look at board #6 to see how it was done from the factory.

Usually will solder the end contacts first for stability, then one in the center, and work my way out on either side from there. Also, you will have to make sure the display is not soldered on at an angle. It needs to be perpendicular to the board otherwise it won't fit into the Lexan top.

11 Oct 2009, 18:55

Hi. I "lost" the tiny connector on hole Nr. 10 and 1 post is broken ;-( It think I'll stop my work with this board and go to board Nr. 10 but I'm locking for someone how can solder in and out the IC from one board to another, that's definitely to complex for me

Keep in touch....

Reno

12 Oct 2009, 07:03

Replacing the IC is not hard, you just have to be careful. Use your soldering iron to heat up the solder on each leg. Use a tiny flat screwdriver to gently pry up the leg once the solder lets go. Don't hold the iron too long to the leg or you might fry the IC. Make note of the of the direction you pulled the IC off and install it onto the new board. Again, you don't want to hold the iron too long on the leg once the solder starts flowing.

renozumi wrote:Hi. I "lost" the tiny connector on hole Nr. 10 and 1 post is broken ;-( It think I'll stop my work with this board and go to board Nr. 10 but I'm locking for someone how can solder in and out the IC from one board to another, that's definitely to complex for me

Keep in touch....

Reno

12 Oct 2009, 20:53

Hi.

Great, desoldering the IC isn't very difficult. But one leg was broken.

I suppose that, for example board nr 1 is a MKI-board and, for example board nr 9 is a MKII-board (is that true?).

Now I have no more IC for my preffered board no. 10 (witch is a MKII-board). Is it possible to take a IC from a MKI-board (like board no. 1) and solderd it in board no. 10?

Thanks again and bye
Reno

13 Oct 2009, 21:32

Hi.

Now I got one working. But now there is a problem with the disaply:

http://www.majhost.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=2410092

I suppose the correct time should be "12:00"

Now I'm very carefully with further work. But what could this be now? Do I have to change the display?

Thanks to all and have a nice day
Reno

13 Oct 2009, 22:30

reno, the display may be fine, but you may have some bad segment transistors. email me: alpineclockshop@aol.com peter

Synchronar Mark I - Where's the problem??

: Synchronar Mark I - Where's the problem??

: Synchronar Mark I - Where's the problem??

: Synchronar Mark I - Where's the problem??

: Synchronar Mark I - Where's the problem??

: Synchronar Mark I - Where's the problem??

: Synchronar Mark I - Where's the problem??

: Synchronar Mark I - Where's the problem??

: Synchronar Mark I - Where's the problem??

: Synchronar Mark I - Where's the problem??

: Synchronar Mark I - Where's the problem??

: Synchronar Mark I - Where's the problem??

Re: : Synchronar Mark I - Where's the problem??

: Synchronar Mark I - Where's the problem??

: Synchronar Mark I - Where's the problem??

: Synchronar Mark I - Where's the problem??

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