clockace wrote:Well----! that would certainly explain the rust spots on the chip as well as the rusted off chip leads under the sc. i have seen this on most of the ones i have repaired to some degree or another. water and watches usually don't mix well, especially if it is inside.
Hi peter. Most of the modules I've opened have been corroded.
I don't think it was clear in my post above, but the main problem with the gel was
after the watch had been sealed and in use, not water getting in during production. Invisible micro-cracks would eventually develop in the lexan through normal use of the watch, then water would get in and slowly diffuse through the gel. This was especially a problem when the watch was used in the ocean - the temperature difference would accelerate the cracking process, and then salt water would leech in.
Late in the game, Roger experimented with a work-around: Instead of using gel, he would pot the watches with polyurethane, which did not have any of the problems that the gel did. He planned to do this with the Mark V but one of the delays with this idea was that the polyurethane filled modules all had bubbles in them and he spent a lot of time trying to figure out how to prevent that from happening.
(pic from http://www.ledwatches.net/articles/synchronar_review.html)This was around the same time that he added the metal back. Until reading the above review, I never knew that he had actually made any polyurethane filled modules, only that he was planning to.
In addition to the bubbles (which wouldn't bother me at all), I imagine that one big drawback with the polyurethane idea is that it would be impossible to service the watch. If I ever do such a thing myself, I would leave empty space in the module for the batteries, allowing them to be replaced down the road. But anything like replacing the solar panel or adjusting the positions of the reed switches would be out of the question so I really don't recommend it - I only mention it for historical reasons.