wearing a Synchronar

[rmcadon]

I have a black Synchronar, that I received from Roger some 15-20 years ago, as a repair/upgrade. I originally had a ss Sunwatch, that had stopped working.
I have seen pictures and also read that the mk IV modules had a metal piece on the back. The watch that I received may not have been new (surface scratches), and it also did not have a metal piece on the back. I only wore it a couple of times, and it has been sitting on a desk for many years.
I recently have thought of wearing it again, but the question I have is, will it pose a problem to wear the watch without the metal back?
I assume the metal piece was there to protect the watch from the oils and salts from your skin. If not why is it there?

[retroleds]

Yes, the idea was that it protected the LExan plastic from body oils. And is [arguably] a little more comfortable than plastic against the skin.

[rmcadon]

Thanks for the reply.
So it is probably not a good idea to wear it?
Because everything I've read this is possibly a rare watch, original unopened case and still working.

[Sully008]

I'd wear it. In fact, I've worn my Synchronars and all my LEDs at least once out and about. That includes several MkIs and my MkIV. I also have a black Synchronar that I've worn out on occasion. You just need to be careful not to hit anything with it because the coating is not that strong. Just wear 'em and enjoy 'em.

[dot matrix]

The metal-backing was a modification that Roger came up with for the intended Mark V. But he started using it on some of the very-late Mark IVs.

He told me a story about one Synchronar owner who owned a dry-cleaners. He said that the dry-cleaning chemicals that had been absorbed by the owner, were then absorbed into the back of the Synchronar from the owner's skin and damaged the workings of the module. According to him, this was because the lexan (and the gel) were both not as impermeable as their specs claimed.

After hearing that from him, my work-around was to apply a square of black electrical tape to the bottom of my watch's module - a homebrewed solution to the problem. I also decided to never own a dry-cleaners.

For the record, I will state that the Synchronar that I did this to no longer functions - one of the batteries eventually leaked acid throughout the module innards. So I can't be certain whether my "solution" was really a good idea or not...

[dot matrix]

One more thing - in his instruction sheet for the Mark IV module, Roger Riehl wrote: "TEFLON tape may be used on bottom for more protection against solvents." The metal backing was an extension of this.

[dot matrix]

One more thing - in his instruction sheet for the Mark IV module, Roger Riehl wrote: "TEFLON tape may be used on bottom for more protection against solvents."

WARNING: I removed the tape from my old Mark III and discovered that the back had become networked with raised spider-web cracks beneath the tape. I'm guessing the moisture from the tape adhesive caused it, or maybe moisture got caught beneath the tape.




Not recommended.

[J Thomas]

[J Thomas]

[retroleds]

It brought to mind a friend who has the strange ability to "dissolve" his plastic wristwatches. He often wears those cheap-ass Casio's or other black band plastic watches. Each would last him about a year before the band would exhibit signs of rot, and the cases would discolor to a nasty turd-like hue.

When I was working in tool & die I had a co-worker who was always getting yelled at for not wiping our good prescicion tools off before putting away - we all knew, something in George's body chemistry left rusty fingerprints almost immediately on whatever he touched. There is the guy at my brother's office who's mouse and keyboard get nasty like the plastic is molding withing a few months. Kind of creeps me out when I have to do maintenance on his computer, but it isn't something that washes off - I've tried. Neither of those guys smell or are dirty ...far from it. Weird stuff.

Glad you were able to get your Sunwatch open with no great damage Jeff. Some pop open like a peanut, others are like cracking a freakin safe.

[charger105]

I had a black bottomed MkIII with a similar crazed bottom. The gel was slightly oozing out from the fractures. Needless to say, it was rooted ! I've never seen a red one like this though.

When I was working in tool & die I had a co-worker who was always getting yelled at for not wiping our good prescicion tools off before putting away - we all knew, something in George's body chemistry left rusty fingerprints almost immediately on whatever he touched.

I'm one of those people who rust things immediately . In metalwork at high school, we'd all get our work out from the cupboard at the beginning of each lesson........mine was always covered in surface rust. I can confirm that I too, do not smell and am not dirty !

Rgds.

[clockace]

having seen only 3 black bottomed synch's i kind of thought the problem may have come from inside the module. one i have and it does not have the problem. one belonged to a friend who worked at an acetylene manufacturing plant and his did that[got the crazing]. he worked with the calcium carbonate that acetylene is made of and that stuff got into the links as well and corroded the bracelet badly. anyway because of the slight bulging of the black bottom i thought maybe the cells were leaking and causing this reaction. could that be? none of the red bottoms i have exhibit the same problem. peter

[dot matrix]

having seen only 3 black bottomed synch's i kind of thought the problem may have come from inside the module. one i have and it does not have the problem. one belonged to a friend who worked at an acetylene manufacturing plant and his did that[got the crazing]. he worked with the calcium carbonate that acetylene is made of and that stuff got into the links as well and corroded the bracelet badly. anyway because of the slight bulging of the black bottom i thought maybe the cells were leaking and causing this reaction. could that be?

This watch would conform with that theory. It looks as though at least one of the batteries had a melt down, with the acid leaking around above the solar panel.



In another thread, there's a discussion of NiCd and NiMH batteries. I'm curious if one type is less likely to leak than the other.

[redcar66]

[clockace]

kevin that's a good question. i think tho', i have read, maybe on this forum, that these cells do outgas slightly as they discharge. sealing them may not be the best idea. i think the factory seal is supposed to be sufficient for the life of the cell. usually all cells do not become corrosive until they are depleted. that is why they can have a long shelf life. i have been told that the nimH cells do not contain anything corrosive and are earth friendly, contrary to the cadmium in the nicads. but then, what do i know. maybe some of the electronics wizards on theis site can add further. peter