An interesting discovery

[J Thomas]

[clockace]

hi jeff, i too discovered that the black bottom will not work on the dot segment. i did however make one up to work on the mkII w/bar segment display. i don't have the luxury you have in having a milling machine so i did it by hand with a flat faced burr and a flexshaft grinder. what a mess that made, but it worked. with your mill it should be pretty straightforward of a task and then you would be able to see the innards. i think it may involve a little polishing to remove the millmarks inside however.

[abem]

Jeff,

Dang, that Monsanto display looks just smashing with the red Chiclet shaped digits and the very distinct little red dots. Very 70s style futuristic.

Related question:
Have you seen or built any Synch-enstiens? I'm surprised that we don't see more of these since the case is so distinctive and the original modules are so suicidal. It would seem that if the display from the Chinese OLED module could be relocated, then it would be the proper dimensions and aspect ratio to fit the available space.

I've been keeping my eyes out for a Sunwatch case (without the top bar) with the intention of assembling a Synch-enstein that uses the top solar panel opening for the display. I have a couple modules in mind that might work but I haven't succeeded in locating a case to find out.

Cheers,

-abe.

[J Thomas]

[J Thomas]

[charger105]

I've never noticed the subtle differences between those 2 encapsulated displays. So each segment of each digit was laid down on the PCB individually for the MkIII displays ? I'm guessing this was done to achieve the DOW readout (I guess early on this wasn't available on a discreet digit die).

I'll go out and see if I can find a manufacturer on these displays in my box of "crap". The other variation is the 'sawtooth' Monsanto display that I posted up sometime back. Only ever seen one of these:

discussed here at the bottom of the page:
http://www.dwf.nu/viewtopic.php?t=3757& ... =prototype

By the way Jeff, if you end up making those bottoms up, please make a few extra for me

[charger105]

Just had a dig through my old displays. There seems like a lot of interesting variations.

MkI/II:
1. Regular Monsanto (some using gold legs to attach to module, some using direct solder pads).
2. Encapsulated with each LED segment laid down individually. No DOW. No hanging LED dots underneath....I may have removed them though.
3. Encapsulated with discreet digit dice. DOW provision, but DOW segments not bonded. Hanging LED dots underneath.
4. Encapsulated with discreet digit dice. DOW provision with DOW segments bonded !! Hanging LED dots underneath.

The discreet die above would show 'R' in Friday as shown below in black (not that the module supports it).

MkIII/MkIV:
1. Encapsulated as Jeff showed. 'R' displayed as below in red.
2. Encapsulated with discreet digit die with DOW. 'R' displayed as below in black.
3. Exposed wire bonds + goo. Didn't look at carefully.



No makers marks.
Rgds.

[J Thomas]

[charger105]

No problem Jeff.
I find it interesting that we find these subtle variations interesting !!

Rgds.

[J Thomas]

[Sully008]

Holy crap, Jeff! That looks awesome! I really wish I had access to cool tools like that. It certainly helping in restoring the Synchronars, even if it's not "canon". IMO, a working watch on your wrist is better than nothing.

[LEDluvr]

Top notch work there Jeff!
I hope your finger is doing better.....

[egomon]

Why just not print it...

I made a 3D model of the back kover and then just send it to my friend for 3D printing...It's just a quick try but its possible to print it in black, clear or like this matte whyte-semy see thru ´what is in this foto.
I made it a bit bigger 1 mm to every direction just in case, the second will be in correct dimentions.

[img][img]http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/9604/img5559pieni.jpg[/img]

[img][img]http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/2654/img5561l.jpg[/img]

[img][img]http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/6094/img5567m.jpg[/img]





I'm in business trip again and these are only fotos that i have from my printed bottom, will post more fotos on friday fotos, when I'm home again .

[J Thomas]

[rewolf]

Printing is a nice idea. But the material is rather brittle, and if not laqered has a rough surface and becomes yellow after some time - at least this is my experience with Stereolithography prototypes.

[J Thomas]

[bucko170]

Jeff it certainly gives the bottom an interesting and organized look, congratulations on a superb job

[clockace]

jeff, that is an awesome job on the bottom! best part is you can make it to fit perfectly with the v80 cells. my experience is they have always required some grinding of the cell cavities to get a tight fit. the clear bottom also has a nice visual effect. on the mkIII bottom, i have one on a mkII. i had to grind out all of the original insides[was that ever a mess] with a hand held foredom motor and burr. it will not work with the v80's. they are too thick. i used 2x v40's and it is still running now almost 2 yrs later. it has never faded for lack of power altho' i don't know how many activations a day it would tolerate. sorry to hear about your finger. hopefully it is not too bad. peter

[egomon]

J Thomas wrote:

Now if Egon would draw the model for the top cover, we might be able to hand his g-code over to a shop and cut a complete enclosure from a block of Lexan.

Jeff if you are sierious about that then I might do the 3D model on this weekend..

Egon

[J Thomas]

[bucko170]

Of course, the folks who bought an original clear molded enclosure would not be too happy......... Screw them

Err thanks Jeff

BTW: Please view the photo of my really really expensive clear case synchronar

http://www.dwf.nu/Gallery/displayimage. ... 0998&pos=0

Only joking, I wish you well

Would there be any copyright or patent issues to overcome re-creating the whole case?

[J Thomas]