Synchronar overflow on ebay

[egomon]

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R4 ... Categories

7 at the same time :)

[retroleds]

Just rare coincident. One guy selling two non runnera, an odd band on another, another guy with a watch and part of a movement.

[Kasper]

hi,

i am new to this forum..been lurking here for some time.
I always wanted a synchronar but i'm no specialist.

any pointers here..do you think one of the bids is interesting or
do i have to wait for better deals?

Or does it not get better than this?

greetz from belgium

[abem]

"Sync overflow"? Software developer or electrical engineer?

-abe.

[egomon]

With synchronars its always good to buy a working one. Other members ( who now are left the forum) said to me that when you buy a non worker factory sealed watch then the watch usually has a lot battery corrosion in them. I only have bought one factory sealed watch and it was very corroded doe to battery suicide and it was non repairable .

You can get a very good deal from the Roger Rhiel (synchronar inventor) sun Barry for the parts (metal and lexan cases,bands, boxes and flyers) and one guy in Germany is doing repro modules (http://www.strikesandspares.de/com/modriehl.htm).

And I have some 20 or so original working modules (MK1 and MK2) what are for sale.

Hope that helps

Regerad

Egon

[retroleds]

You can get a very good deal from the Roger Rhiel (synchronar inventor) sun Barry for the parts (metal and lexan cases,bands, boxes and flyers) and one guy in Germany is doing repro modules (http://www.strikesandspares.de/com/modriehl.htm).

And I have some 20 or so original working modules (MK1 and MK2) what are for sale.

Hope that helps

Regerad

Egon

Egon, I shudder to think how many of the rotted out Synchronars you had to go through to glean those workers. I have about a dozen working modules, but that was the end result of opening 70+ Synchronars, only really repairing a few. The ones that were rotted, were generally hopeless. So many things done right on the Synchronar, only to be ruined by those batteries.

Original poster: "Ebay" isn't a dirty word - you can use it here. I edited your title.

Syynchronar modules with a pin hole on each side between the top reed switches. The inventor or his sons have already tried powering them up years ago via those holes, using probes. Now they have have been unsealed to the elements, besides whatever flaw shut them down initially. Barry R. is nice enough to deal with, but I am looking forward to them running out of those old [junk] parts.

[retroleds]

You can get a very good deal from the Roger Rhiel (synchronar inventor) sun Barry for the parts (metal and lexan cases,bands, boxes and flyers) and one guy in Germany is doing repro modules (http://www.strikesandspares.de/com/modriehl.htm).

And I have some 20 or so original working modules (MK1 and MK2) what are for sale.

Hope that helps

Regerad

Egon

Egon, I shudder to think how many of the rotted out Synchronars you had to go through to glean those workers. I have about a dozen working modules, but that was the end result of opening 70+ Synchronars, only really repairing a few. The ones that were rotted, were generally hopeless. So many things done right on the Synchronar, only to be ruined by those batteries.

Original poster: "Ebay" isn't a dirty word - you can use it here. I edited your title.

Syynchronar modules with a pin hole on each side between the top reed switches. The inventor or his sons have already tried powering them up years ago via those holes, using probes. Now they have have been unsealed to the elements, besides whatever flaw shut them down initially. Barry R. is nice enough to deal with, but I am looking forward to them running out of those old [junk] parts.

[egomon]

Hi Retroleads.

My synchronar history

I have only bought one factory sealed Synchronar and it was rotten to no repair (chip was gone and I did not know what I was doing, destroying the cb) But that did enough damage to my brain to make me hooked on them (repairing them)

Here is the link to the forum theme:http://dwf.nu/viewtopic.php?t=3980

There is truly magical to see the watch light up once again after 40 or so years

After that I got a lot of help from J. Thomas who gave me a lot of hints and tips for repair. And form J.Thomas I heard that there is high risk to buy non worker from ebay doe to battery suicide and corrosion after that. I have never seen closed and drilled lexan cases, I think that the Rhiel brothers have run out of them...

The ones what i got ware all open and without lexan case... in wearies condition. Some just waste and some in very good condition.


Regards

Egon

[retroleds]

There is truly magical to see the watch light up once again after 40 or so years

ALWAYS!

After that I got a lot of help from J. Thomas who gave me a lot of hints and tips for repair. And form J.Thomas I heard that there is high risk to buy non worker from ebay doe to battery suicide and corrosion after that. I have never seen closed and drilled lexan cases, I think that the Rhiel brothers have run out of them...

The ones what i got ware all open and without lexan case... in wearies condition. Some just waste and some in very good condition.
Regards
Egon

You were maybe quite lucky my friend - opening them up takes a learning curve - the Rhiels would have had better equipment for opening the cases, if they were truly thinking they might try to salvage parts. But I have to think a high percentage were one return due to fialures, not just for upgrade. We'll never know. I am glad you have had success with them. I believe that once they are safely away from those batteries, the circuits can last for years, maybe decades. Collectors will be more reassured if different individuals can get the number of workers out there into the low hundreds. ?There is safety in numbers?

Wow, I have been absent a lot this summer - you guys have keep up a nice pace on topics - you rock! Ed-ios!

[charger105]

The Mk1 and Mk11s are also far more likely to work again due to the enclosed chip and discreet component design.

MkIIIs and MkIVs are a different kettle of fish entirely. If they don't work initially, there's not much to do except throw them away. Theyr'e exceptionally difficult to open without damaging the IC, difficult to re-wirebond due to the goo the chips covered in and difficult to put back together even if the chip works initially (changing displays, reed-switches, adding solar panels and then 'closing the lid' can all be tricky with that darn exposed chip sitting there ready to be bumped or prodded ).

I've only got 4 or 5 MkIIIs and IVs going. Almost every MkI and MkII I've worked on has come back to life.

Rgds,
Andrew.

[egomon]

MkIIIs and MkIVs are a different kettle of fish entirely. If they don't work initially, there's not much to do except throw them away. Theyr'e exceptionally difficult to open without damaging the IC, difficult to re-wirebond due to the goo the chips covered in and difficult to put back together even if the chip works initially (changing displays, reed-switches, adding solar panels and then 'closing the lid' can all be tricky with that darn exposed chip sitting there ready to be bumped or prodded

..and that is why I stick with the MK1 and MK2

Egon

[retroleds]

I agree with both you guys(two previous posts) - the early models with their chunkier, sealed components are the only ones with a lot of hope for repair.

I just opened a guys MKIV w/stopwatch for batteries - a few (not all) of the bottom row of the direct wire-bonded display is gone. How can I possibly make it better by going in there? - removing the goo will certainly break more bonds. To say nothing of the damage to the solar cell -a particularly thick, sticky and gelatinous batch of "potting snot" in this one. I have suggested to the owner that I rebattery, seal lightly but tightly and he live without the lower bar on the single digit minutes and the leftmost character of display.

I have 2 dozen NOS Monsanto displays...keep meaning to get those to our man at Strikes & Spares. Don't know if he has a real need for them. It takes buyers and it takes all the other parts to bring a watch together.