Bulova Mod Wanted/Lots Of RED LED Parts For Sale Buy & Trade

[Chicago-Watch]

Im looking for a few working bulova modules for 3 led watches i have. One of them is working, so one more or two would be best.
I also have alot of LED watches, all different brands and types. I have been playing around changeing batteries but some of them will need to be repaired.
I am looking for some who can fix some of these as a side job. I would definetly be a long term customer. I am also looking to sell some of the watches in my collection.

I am interested in Buy,Sell,and Trade - JordanS708 At Yahoo

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[SASM]

Hello,

the Bulovas are not the problem in that a SASM53 perfectly replaces the broken modules. If you have something to trade just let me know.

[Chicago-Watch]

In the pics i just got the LED's, alittle easier to view. All i need is a mod, i can get a working mod but it will be as a complete watch. That i dont need. They could probly be a easy fix as well but i just dont know alot about quartz watches. What are you interested in or i can buy. If you can drop a pic. Thanks for the reply

[SASM]

(...)All i need is a mod,(...)

[bucko170]

Sorry your post has left me puzzled - are you needing a new module for a Bulova, selling/trading what is photographed or both?

[retroleds]

I was curious what the SASM53 is. And since we don't know which Bulova there is no way to know about fit: could be one with pushers contacts at 1 & 3, or a (yellow chassis, black face) with contacts at about 2:30 & 8:30 whcih were ironically made by Chicago Bell like some of the driver's modules of which there are 3 distinct styles.

[Chicago-Watch]

Sorry your post has left me puzzled - are you needing a new module for a Bulova, selling/trading what is photographed or both?

"Puzzled" Whats so hard. I want a working module for one of the 3 bulova watches in the pic. Doesnt have to be new just working. Everything is for sale.

I was curious what the SASM53 is. And since we don't know which Bulova there is no way to know about fit: could be one with pushers contacts at 1 & 3, or a (yellow chassis, black face) with contacts at about 2:30 & 8:30 whcih were ironically made by Chicago Bell like some of the driver's modules of which there are 3 distinct styles.

There is a pic of three bulova watches. All there mods are the same. Im not looking for a diver or big block mod so what do you think i am looking for?

[retroleds]

There is a pic of three bulova watches. All there mods are the same. Im not looking for a diver or big block mod so what do you think i am looking for?

Part of the problem is, you loaded some huge pictures, so the watches are not immediatey visable - frankly the first picture looks likes it might just be part of the same generic blob of old watches we see in the other shots. Ok, you need the most unreliable (imo) that ever went into a Bulova watch. Also fairly thin and virtually impossible to replace with something else due to the intergral front cover which covers the LEDs.

Regarding Mick/Bucko being puzzled - honestly, a new person looking for some help should consider not being too terribly snide with someone like Mick who has been here for years, is quite knowledgeable and absolutely the nicest person to deal with. IF you come off as snide, short or bitchy, people just stop helping you or answering your threads. I would agree with Mick - you didn't make it clear what you were trying to do with the boxes of watches. Without them laid out it is hard to accertain what you have. And women's watches are virtually worthless - I have nothing but the absolute cleanest ones on my site and sell less than one a year. Women don't wear digitals for the most part.

Since you apparently have tested your watches the lot is worth less than from a random seller who knows absolutely nothing, since the odds of any becoming workers is statistically lower.

The real free advice from an experienced seller: never show what you have until you are ready to sell and never tell/brag of what you paid.

[Accusar]

Very well put retroleds. I am a new person myself to this forum (this is my first post) and was amazed at the response and rudeness of this member to the experts in digital watches just giving their opinion and trying to help.

[bucko170]

Thanks for the support chaps.
Sometimes the typed word can sound harsh without it meaning to, maybe that was just the case here, but no worries either way, I work in the mining industry and the daily banter is pretty tasty so I am not easily offended.

Welcome to the forum Accusar

[Chicago-Watch]

bucko170 & retroleds i would like to apologize, Sorry about comeing off the wrong way. bucko170, you are totaly right. I sould have specified better and not be so short, i wasnt trying to come off as a dick or disapoint anybody. I just need to give alittle more info, i am going to work on the description. I am new to this and the last thing i want to do is make enemys. I am only trying to help all the fellow collectors with possible parts that are needed. I also need parts and one hand washes the other. I do admit the pictures suck, this is the first time i made a post and i just uploaded pics from my phone and posted them. Now i know, i need to make them smaller in paint. retroleds you are very right " fairly thin and virtually impossible to replace with something else due to the intergral front cover which covers the LEDs " you couldnt descibe it anybetter.

bucko170 & retroleds i would like to apologize, Sorry about comeing off the wrong way. bucko170, you are totaly right. I sould have specified better and not be so short, i wasnt trying to come off as a dick or disapoint anybody. I just need to give alittle more info, i am going to work on the description. I am new to this and the last thing i want to do is make enemys. I am only trying to help all the fellow collectors with possible parts that are needed. I also need parts and one hand washes the other. I do admit the pictures suck, this is the first time i made a post and i just uploaded pics from my phone and posted them. Now i know, i need to make them smaller in paint. retroleds you are very right " fairly thin and virtually impossible to replace with something else due to the intergral front cover which covers the LEDs " you couldnt descibe it anybetter.

You get man points for sucking it up.

Yeah, nobody want's to scroll sideways - 600X600 is usually a polite size for a forum.

Your pile of watches - looks like you might have 40-50 mens. Why not lay them out in groups of 12 and take clear pictures, most of us can tell what they are from that - tip them to the left so we can see the button on the right,we will generally know what is to the left. Yes, your module has a translucent red front with holes through the sides for the buttons to pass through. The back battery carrier is a red opaque, white circuit board, gold IC with black lettering on front. HAH!

Unless there is something rare in the pile, the parts are probably not rare. Most of the generic mend's watches with 29mm modules can be interchanged with not much trouble. You just happen to have three of the exceptions. Bulova did a lot of that, and now the Chinese own them.

[bucko170]

bucko170 & retroleds i would like to apologize, Sorry about comeing off the wrong way. bucko170, you are totaly right. I sould have specified better and not be so short, i wasnt trying to come off as a dick or disapoint anybody. I just need to give alittle more info, i am going to work on the description. I am new to this and the last thing i want to do is make enemys. I am only trying to help all the fellow collectors with possible parts that are needed. I also need parts and one hand washes the other. I do admit the pictures suck, this is the first time i made a post and i just uploaded pics from my phone and posted them. Now i know, i need to make them smaller in paint. retroleds you are very right " fairly thin and virtually impossible to replace with something else due to the intergral front cover which covers the LEDs " you couldnt descibe it anybetter.

No worries and welcome to the forum

I am looking forward to seeing the photo's

[s_elias]

Hi,

Just adding my observations as well -

Looking at the 3 bulova's posted - you need a mostek 17B module for the two bulova's (middle, and far right). Not sure about the 1st one in the pic, I haven't worked on that style (yet). Also as mentioned prior, you can purchase a SASM or you may even have a suitable replacement in the pile of LED's that you have.

Also just confirming are the bulova's empty cases without modules and carriers or do they have non-working modules installed?

Secondly - regarding the bulk of watches, I noticed you had a mix of LCD watches in the piles. Could you seperate out the LCD's and post those watches as well.
I may be interested in a few of the LCD watches, however I need a closer look :)

IMHO - regarding repairing the non-workers, it might not be worth having someone fix it unless as the guys stated you have a "rare" or "desirable" watch.

Otherwise if you have the "will" and want to acquire the "skill" there are plenty of experienced people on the forum willing to help give pointers on fixing the watches yourself. I've been a new member myself and learned so much for the experts already. In fact I just "fixed" my first bulova module this weekend by replacing the quartz crystal !!.

See the electrical section for tips and ongoing dialog of mastering the craft

[Chicago-Watch]

Hi,

Just adding my observations as well -

Looking at the 3 bulova's posted - you need a mostek 17B module for the two bulova's (middle, and far right). Not sure about the 1st one in the pic, I haven't worked on that style (yet). Also as mentioned prior, you can purchase a SASM or you may even have a suitable replacement in the pile of LED's that you have.

Also just confirming are the bulova's empty cases without modules and carriers or do they have non-working modules installed?

Secondly - regarding the bulk of watches, I noticed you had a mix of LCD watches in the piles. Could you seperate out the LCD's and post those watches as well.
I may be interested in a few of the LCD watches, however I need a closer look :)

IMHO - regarding repairing the non-workers, it might not be worth having someone fix it unless as the guys stated you have a "rare" or "desirable" watch.

Otherwise if you have the "will" and want to acquire the "skill" there are plenty of experienced people on the forum willing to help give pointers on fixing the watches yourself. I've been a new member myself and learned so much for the experts already. In fact I just "fixed" my first bulova module this weekend by replacing the quartz crystal !!.

See the electrical section for tips and ongoing dialog of mastering the craft

All the bulovas are complete. The caravelle is the nicest one so i put the working mod inside of it, it has a real clean and quality look. The insides on all are the same. I took some pics of the LCD's for you. Theres nuthing real special, but if you like something just make me a offer.

I believe there is alot of helpers on here and i know im in the right spot. But its hard to start cause some of the topics i just cant make out what everything means. But it takes time and alot of questions. Any specific post you think will help me working on some of these. I know alot about watches, my main thing is restoration. The watches in the pictures dont look good but if you saw some of the before and afters of the vintage mechanical watches i like to work on.

[Chicago-Watch]

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[s_elias]

Thanks for uploading the detailed LCD pictures, some interesing old LCD's in the lot.

Perhaps we can exchange a few tips on restoration (I could use some help on cases, bands, crystal scratches).

Can you upload a few pictures of the "suspect" bulova led modules so we can take a look to see what the problem might be?
Try taking pictures of the front / back module, then remove (if possible) the blue or grey big plastic "carrier" (The thing that holds the batteries in place).

This expose the ceramic circuit board so we can have a better look at the traces, etc...

Some times traces are slightly erroded and needed to be cleaned or repaired. What "tools" do you have for circuit / electrical work?

Also one tip I learned from the forum is to clean eveything with rubbing alcohol and a q-tip (traces, contacts, etc..). Also clean the battery contacts and button contacts with an eraser. Just those simple tips will many times cause a module to spring back to life.

Once you do that, put everything back together, (carrier and board). Put "fresh" batteries in the module, put the battery clip and cover over the module and "flip" the module over display side up.

Do this while holding the module in the cover, it's easier to do this on a table / desk. Press down on the carrier so it's making good contact with the clip and cover. See if you notice any "activity" on the display (lights, digits lighting). Try pressing down a few times.

Take a metallic object (I use a small screw driver or pin extractor tool) and make contact with the metal tab on the side of the module (where the buttons would press) and the back case plate. (ie: short the two together, some people use a metal alligator clip and wire). See if you notice any activty on the display.

Let us know what you see and we can take it from there with more tips.

In the electronics forum look for threads on quartz crystal or search the main board thread - you'll start finding threads on repair.

[Chicago-Watch]

Restoration is my favorite part. Just break everything down in to parts. Take the back off drop the movement and take the hands off or keep the stem in to move the hands as you clean the dial. On most watches take the crystal out it can be refitted or simply just replaced. Crystal threw Esslinger.com are only $3-6 for plastic and I couldn’t believe like .88 cents for mineral glass.

Take the band off of the bezel and clean between the lugs and every crack with some pegwood. If the bezel is plated base metal chrome or gold you can’t use a polishing burr and compound/rouge so what i use and it always works. Brasso, start off with just a little on a rag and play around with it, then go back over it with a real soft rag i use a microfiber. You have to be easy how much you put on some gold plating. Some of the newer cheap china watches it will just strip that cheap stuff off, but if it’s more than at least 10 mil plating you can tell the difference when applying.
If the bezel is stainless then you did well. This is the new gold, if its vintage and stainless it is always demanding more now. In this case I use a dremel with polishing wheels. I start off with a ruff grit compound red tripoli. This will polish it but almost leaving a satin finish, and taking out most of the light scratches, and then wipe it down. Last to put a beautiful luster on the bezel or band. I use a different polishing wheel and green rouge its best for stainless. The polishing wheels you don’t want to mix them up, keep each wheel with the different color grades of rouge. The band is the same as above, but when cleaning and polishing the band its best to fully disassemble everything even each link you can take out.

For the crystal if it isn’t badly scratched or cracked. I use 1000 grit sand paper and sand it with a small piece in circular motion. Then you can use 1500 grit if you want to easily polish it out with again brasso. I read about refurbishing crystals with brasso. I was shocked how well it worked and what it does for the bezels. People that use polywatch there just getting ripped off. But after I sand with the 1000, I use another polishing wheel with white diamond rouge. But if you try this you have to be careful. When you start doing buffing and polishing it just takes time to get the touch. Don’t even try to sand down a mineral glass crystal you cant polish it like plastic. Just hit it with a hammer and buy a new one if round. UV glue is whats you need and its easy or the best way is to press it in.

For the dial, to make it easy and keep it original. Take the hands off or keep the stem in to move the hands as you clean the dial. I use a soft dial brush or like a mascara brush, to brush the loss dirt off. Then I use a small piece of blue rodico and a sharpened end of pegwood. Lightly pressing then rolling the putty over the dial and with the pegwood. You can lightly use the wood to clean around the numerals and where the case meets the dial. That’s it; I wouldnt try to use anything else.

It’s a process, I like the bulova’s cause there bezels are stainless. Most common LED’s are base metal. I know once I can get these running, I’m going to throw down on the watch and band. They will look brand new. If you got it looking good and selling online the picture have to be as good. I use a LS pro photo booth that I modified for different backgrounds and light. It’s just a pain to bust out every time to use, and is only good for small things like little lots or a watch.

I took some pics of the one module that looks clean. The other is pretty corroded and has a broken contact. Also one good tip I got off this forum was to use a lot of alcohol, which does work. I tried jumping the contacts and messing with the batteries but nothing showing on the display. I have all the essential tools for working on watches and electronics. I work for a vending / amusement machine company and repair pool tables, jukeboxes, and arcade machines. But trouble shooting a arcade machine is different because instead of replacing IC chips, we just swap out whole components. Thank you for the leads I uploaded some pics. If you see something I’m missing or have any more input do tell.

[s_elias]

thanks for the restoration tips very intersting

the module you upload is the classic 17B mostek. i would swab down the top and bottom and trace out a few of the traces with a dmm to ensure ther are no breaks. also check the traces under 20x or better magnification

if all that checks out with no breaks then i would replace the crystal. you can clip the old one out for now and harvest another one from another working clock source like an old lcd watch. if not then you can buy them from ebay, look for tuning fork freq or 32 khz freq. Also look for 12.5 pf load cap. as these seem to work best. the physical form factor can be different as long as it fits in the plastic carrier.