Help with bulova driver compuchron red crystal removal?

[767Geoff]

The title says it all. Got a gold plated bulova driver version. The crystal is in mint shape but the case is worn and nicked. Not a problem to resurface the case and then replate. Already removed the two buttons but I have to take off the the crystal.

It appears to be mineral like the pulsar 1, 2 and omega 1, 2. Can I use the oven method as described to soften the glue?

Cheers, Geoff

[lucamd11]

for the pulsar PII etc. i usually use an hair dryer at maximum heat,just put the watch over a towel and heat it at the biginning for one minute and try to see if its ungled then if it is not do it for a little more..and so on,untill it comes out,this way you are sure that you dont heat it more that the necessary.
W the DC10!!

[767Geoff]

Thanks! Did the oven thing 200'C for 5 minutes and it popped out perfectly. Removed the excess epoxy with laquer thinner and have finished sanding the case and prepping it for the gold platers.

Yes the DC 10 was fun to fly but "if ain't Boeing, I ain't going"

[redled]

Geoff, how/where do you go about getting it re-plated? What sort of place does that? Will they strip the old finish off or do you have to do that beforehand? I have a case I want to refurbish but I don't know where to start. Thanks for any help you can give me.

[tonyb]

Most jewelers can replate you may be able to do it yourself if you can get the gold plating solution and power supply I could figure out the current you would need to plate a small object. The easy way to remove plating is mecanically ie sandpaper. Or you can remove it with cyanide solution, which may not be legal any more and is very dangerous, I passed out once after taking a big wiff of gold plating solution.

tony.

[767Geoff]

Hi there,

1 Best to strip the case down, crystal, pushers back plate and anything else that can be removed, i.e. not permantly fixed to the case.

2 Next, using progressively finer grit; I start with 400 than 600 then 1000 wet/dry sand paper until the dings and nicks are removed.

3 With my bench buffer I carefully buff until high polish, trying to keep the edges sharp. This of course tends to remove any of the gold plate left, however, the platers will chemically remove the existing gold in anycase.

4 a) Next is the step where you put your finish on, grained or polished etc. If graining then I use 200 grit garnet sanding sponge and grain in parallel strokes until the desired finish. Once plated the micro grains will show through the plate.

4 b) If a gloss finish is required make sure the final product is clear of blemishes and graining from the sand paper.

5 take it to the plating company, every town has one, if in doubt ask a local jeweller. My people only due the yellow gold plate, however there are people who can plate in other shades of gold, make sure you specify.

6 you will probably be asked if you want a satin finish or polished. I ask for polished and satinize it myself with Green Sheets of pot scrubber.

My plater is in Vancouver, British Columbia "ACME PLATING" but I am sure every large town will have one.

Cheers,
Geoff

[redled]

Thanks guys. Just one more question if I may Geoff; i'm a little unclear by what you mean by satin or polish finish in step 6. I'll be giving them a brushed piece; do you mean if I specify a polished finish they'll polish it out, or is it something else? Basically I can get the peice looking the way I want, I just can't plate it, so that's all I want them to do. BTW, I looked up electroplating companies in my area and sure enough, there are some. I don't know if they'll take such a small job, but i'll call them tomorrow. What's a fair price for one watchcase?

[767Geoff]

Yes you can put a satin finish on a polished high gloss piece. When it comes to heavier microgrooving then that is done before the electroplating occurs and will then show through.

80 dollars canadian per piece, so a two piece case would be 160. Most of the plated watches I deal with have a stainless steel back.

I will post some pictures later of replated cases.

Cheers

[azimuth_pl]

I'd suggest to remove old platings with chemical solutions by the platers themselves and then get it back for applying the finish. of course this requires a double trip but is far easier and gives you an even finish.
when removing old chrome plate on a brass case with sand paper you will always remove slightly more of the brass base until you evenly remove all pieces of the chrome. It also takes at least up to one hour of work to remove the old plate evenly in all places. Hence I do it in 2 steps and for the platers it's just a matter of seconds by using their poisonous liquids

[Led-Time]

How about a DIY gold plating kit - http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/goldpl8.htm

And for touch up's - http://www.intertronics.co.uk/products/chun.htm

[Seer Taak]

How about a DIY gold plating kit - http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/goldpl8.htm

Did I read the info on that website correctly - (tank plating) plates at 2 microns per minute, and it'll only take 30-60s for a durable finish?

Wouldn't that be just 1-2 microns of new plate, compared to the originsl factory finish average of 20-40 microns (80 for Pulsar's, and 120 for Omega's). If that was the case, I wouldn't try wearing, or even polishing, my newly plated watch! :)

[Seer Taak]

Ok - 2 micron inches! Hmm mixing metric with imperial :? That would still only be 2.5 times thicker plate, or 2.5-5 microns!