Pulsar Sport 3502-2 on ebay

[Seer Taak]

I don't want to restart the old can they be described as geuine or not debate, as I would happily buy a Pulsar sport myself (when i get that far down my watches wishlist :) ) however, I wonder if the crystal's have been newly produce? This is just speculation, and not critcism, but I have seen the occasional photo of 3502's against other Pulsar's, and the 3502 crystal seems less transparent!! Maybe this is just down to the evolution of the Pulsar models, but out of curiosity, I wonder if the crystal/gasket assembly is the one part of these watches that was not available to Mike, and needed to be newly fabricated? like I say, i'd happily buy one, I was just curious?

[azimuth_pl]

the more the glass is red the more expensive it gets as the red ingredients are not cheap. the Sport has not only a pretty light-red glass but it also seems to be a bit grey'ish. Although I liked the watch very much for it's appearance, quality and functions, I sold it a week after as it is pretty small as for a late 70's watch (similar in size to the P4 Exec) and also I was surprised with the color of the glass. It's not ruby-bloody red and a lot of sunlight is entering the inside of the case. However the magnifying lenses make it up as for display contrast and visibility.

[Planet-LED]

"Also the cure that Ed suggests for the touch buttons is a great help".

Can someone steer me to that page. Thanks

[azimuth_pl]

can't find it but it was all about applying a small amount of silicon in the gap between the button and case and wipe off the excess amount.

[collector]

Discussion on the "Silicone Fix" is near the bottom of this thread. Ed's hint does work!!!!

http://dwf.nu/viewtopic.php?t=1354&highlight=

[retroleds]

I'd agree with Al(T-Bird) - epoxy is a great choice for glass. I personally use the 5 minute stuff, as it generally has the lowest strength.....I figure 1000 lb/sq. inch is plenty of strenth. *Wet epoxy wipes clean with alcohol*

The slight color difference in the Pulsar Sport I went and looked at mine. I'm thinking that for starters, that glass is really thin compared to any other Pulsar, and it is slightly recessed below the bezel face. So, the red is not as rich, nor does it disipate the light the same. It could be different glass, but my experience working with stained glass leads me to thinking that the difference in chemicals would not make much of a price difference on such a small item. We're only talking tenths of a gram of common minerals, to each square foot of glass sheet. It is mysterious, a slight departure from the other Pulsars.

[azimuth_pl]

btw, the chemical colors are not that cheap and if you order a thousand or more pieces than that makes a difference. the red ingredient is one of the most expensive ones.
one question to ALL - could someone post a picture of the "original" Sport from the 70's next to Mike's Sport model?
just curious if the color will show to be the same?

[bruce wegmann]

I think the answer to this mystery has already been posted; the crystal on the 3502 is MUCH THINNER than the usual Time Computer crystal [.95mm vs. 2-2.4mm]. Coloring agents in glass, like particles of fog, act on a principle called "column density". A few yards' thickness of light fog is practically invisible; half a mile of the same stuff is opaque. Trim the darkest red glass to a tenth of a millimeter thick, and it will be difficult to tell it's colored at all. My understanding is that there were differences in the case that suggested Mike's watches were modern copies; considering the precision of modern manufacturing methods, I have to doubt that. Think about it; the Roundface [my pet name] Executive went virtually unnoticed for a long time, and it had far more obvious differences in case shape and thickness...

[T-bird]

I'm not enough of an expert to say which color the glasses came originally on the Sport, but I'm sure I've seen one on eBay not long ago with a ruby red glass, just like the rest of Pulsars. It was a later 3502-2, with logo on the glass, and it was ruby red.
I've tried an advanced search but the subject (item) was probably too old (if I remember correctly, it was around or shortly after Christmas). If someone here remembers, just let us know. What Bruce says is absolutely true, but Sport's glass and P2 glass (to pick one) are different color and transparency, it's not just a thickness difference. I have an old scratched P2 glass that had scratches so deep that I had to remove 1 mm to get rid of 'em, and it still retains its ruby color, just slightly - i repeat slightly - lighter. Now, at 1.5 or 1.6 mm thickness, it's almost the same as a Sport glass, but with a much better color and transparency. I'll never dare to say that Sport glasses are not original, because guys with much more experience and knowledge than me say they're original glasses. Dennis, a friend and indeed a Pulsar authority, has reviewed the Sport and says that the watches he's had from Mike are original to the smallest detail. So it's probably a difference in production. What I can say for sure, though, is that a 3502-2 with classic ruby red glass has existed, and I (and hopefully some others) have seen it - and someone bought it. :D

Al.

[T-bird]

Ah, okay.
Just check picture number 5 above the first Pulsar green display on the photo section (thanks Guy for having started this collection and thanks Ed for carrying on the project).
It looks like a ruby red glass, but the one I saw on eBay was more evident since the picture had better lighting.
The search continues...

[redled]

Hey, no one was curious enough to take out the module from one of these watches...
I did this on mine, and discovered that the glass was attached to the case with Super Glue, or something like that. It had the white fogging on its inner surface, an obvious effect of the glue. Well this glue is too liquid to form a gasket-like bond between the glass and the metal case. I think that most of Sport's water related troubles come from this. Plus, the white fogging obscured the glass a little. If you remove the module, take out the glass (it's not very hard, mine popped out just by finger pressure) and re-glue it using epoxy or something equivalent, I'm sure the watch will get back to its waterproof standard. Also the cure that Ed suggests for the touch buttons is a great help. These watches were made to be worn. Keeping them in a drawer is no help in showing the world they existed...

Al.

T-Bird you're absolutely right. I did as you suggested and found the same issue you did: white foggy residue on the glass, probably due to a super glue seal. I'm somewhat disappointed in Mike's attention to detail here. He advertises these watches as super-mint and this is a shortcut that compromises the original quality (seal) of the watch significantly, and even effects the appearance due to the fogging on the crystal. I haven't yet replaced the seal, but the white residue cleaned up nicely and I believe that improved the 'redness' of the crystal from the front. Buyer's of this watch shouldn't have to do this though after being promised a 'mint mint mint' watch..

[brianweber4]

Does this link suggest that the 'NOS Pulsar Sport' is new?

http://www.gadgets-reviews.com/index.ph ... id=7&id=18

[redled]

No, that article is bull*&^*. I posted the link to it in another thread awhile back and it was agreed that the author has no clue what they're talking about, and did not reply to attempts to correct that completely fictitious tripe.

[AV8R]

I assume "NOS" means: New Old Stock?

If so, Im also guessing that means someone has found vintage part or
whole watches and is selling them as orignal pieces, right?

What NOS does not mean, is reproduction or fakes or knockoffs or reissues, ie new watches.... correct?

Finally, there are no known repro or fakes of the vintage Pulsars?