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Case-Back Removal help on a P2...

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Pepsidiver

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Case-Back Removal help on a P2...

Post27 Feb 2008, 20:38

Hi Guys, I have this really nice P2 from 1973 and need to replace the batteries. My question is does this Case-Back just screw right off? Or is there some kind of trick I need to know to get it off? I can't seem to get it to start.

Here are some pics of the watch and the tools I have.

Thanks,

Todd.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y100/M ... G_9201.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y100/M ... G_9205.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y100/M ... G_9209.jpg
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Fitron

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: Case-Back Removal help on a P2...

Post27 Feb 2008, 22:31

You need this a Pulsar wrench to get this off safely. Contact Bruce Wegmann with a PM and he can help. Don't use anything else if you value your watch. There's a review of one in here

http://thedigitalwatch.com/QuickTip.htm

There was one on ebay today but for the life of me I can't find it :-?
Bruce was less expensive.
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Pepsidiver

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Re: : Case-Back Removal help on a P2...

Post27 Feb 2008, 23:29

Fitron wrote:You need this a Pulsar wrench to get this off safely. Contact Bruce Wegmann with a PM and he can help. Don't use anything else if you value your watch. There's a review of one in here

http://thedigitalwatch.com/QuickTip.htm

There was one on ebay today but for the life of me I can't find it :-?
Bruce was less expensive.


Yes, that is what I need. Thank you very much.

Todd.
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azimuth_pl

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: Case-Back Removal help on a P2...

Post04 Mar 2008, 17:43

the bigger 3-point case-opener is fully sufficient to open any caseback.
if it doesn't move then apply some oil or WD40 for an hour or two and then try anew. sometimes the caseback was not closed/twisted properly so you have to try harder.
of course, Bruce's wrench is excellent for the job but you already have a multi-tool for all your watch needs.
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joeywaycool

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: Case-Back Removal help on a P2...

Post04 Mar 2008, 20:46

I too have successfully used the three jaw opener shown for Pulsar watches. Using mine conventionally does not work as it does not open/expand enough to allow the engagement of the three pins, 120 degrees apart. However, if you only use two pins (1 lower, one upper) the jaws do open just enough to get two places of engagement, 180 degrees apart.....however be careful not to slip! :x
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retroleds

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: Case-Back Removal help on a P2...

Post04 Mar 2008, 22:47

IF all else fails(sometimes somebody has hopelessly crossthreaded one):
1.Drill a hole right over one or both of the batteries, then you can start tearing out the back with a pair of pin nose pliers(I'm assuming not everyone owns metal nibblers). Eventually you'll be able to get the back to pull out, at which point you can take out the undamaged module and then carefully cut the ring in half with a Dremel cut-off wheel at the notch where the case back locks in or you can use a carbide or diamond burr to cut the ring at the same place.
2.[Case be damned method]Cut at 60 degrees from the back at the center of the button hole. The worse you'll do is nick a replaceable reed switch and from that point a strong man(me) can grab a P2 or P3 by the lugs, and pressing the face of the watch against a solid surface, bend the lugs outward which will cause the back and ring to fall right out. Once the integrity of one side is gone, the cases aren't that strong. :lol:

These suggestions work, but are for most desperate cases(pun intended). I'd love to hear other options
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digibloke

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: Case-Back Removal help on a P2...

Post05 Mar 2008, 01:38

How about this...

Heat up the command button using a paint stripping gun until it's back plate falls into the case. You can then take a small lump of plastic explosive and push it into the 1mm gap which is left when the pusher is all the way in (be sure to leave enough outside of the case to attach crocodile clips to).

Swap the leads on your 3v module tester for 15m long wires and attach these to the explosives using crocodile clips clamped onto the case (remove the batteries from your module tester first). Place the case into the freezer compartment of your refrigerator and close the door tightly using an entire roll of gaffa tape. And some bubble wrap.

(Be sure to remove any vodka/ice lollies/long forgotten malfunctioning hughes modules before sealing the door)

Insert the batteries into your module tester. Cough loudly to avoid having to explain stuff to the wife.

The advantage of this method is that it also removes the red crystal for re-polishing and you won't have to spend hours chipping away at the ice next time you have to defrost.
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LEDluvr

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: Case-Back Removal help on a P2...

Post05 Mar 2008, 04:52

Ah yes, I have heard of that method before digibloke. I believe it's called "the Al Qaida" :lol:
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: Case-Back Removal help on a P2...

Post05 Mar 2008, 12:18

Ah but does it work on a factory sealed Synchronar......(ducks behind wall)

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