funkyguyfromlondon wrote:argh yes retroleds i see the point..
useful info for anyone thinking of buying a simular battered mido.
cheers
G.
Nothing too much to arghh over - you get tired of the less than stellar spots, feel free to sand it down and then polish. That's the beauty of the few cases that used a solid, brass(high copper content) type base metal, versus the ones that are more of a white metal/ "pot metal", heavy in zinc, plated with brass or gold. Funny, the "white gold" Omega TC1s seem to have been made with a really low grade , zinc intensive pot metal under the plating. It took me buffing one of those pricks to understand other people's complaint of a grainy, pitted substrate that was under their stainless TC1. What they thought was a stainless TC1 with a dull finish was a white gold plated one - and they, like I, had just ruined it.
Giving me ANOTHER case that I would either have to have replated, or I should get "creative" on.
I'd suggest 320 grit for the heavy work, switch to 1000 grit(sold wherever they sell automobile paints), then polish. Or even use 2000 grit(used for sanding clear-coat finishes) before polishing. Want to keep it look great for a long time? - either dip in jeweler's lacquar(stuff is super thin, like dipping in alcohol) or rub on some carnuba wax and polish with a rag before it totally dries. Oil your buttons and wipe clean before either and you'll have no problems.
http://www.retroleds.com -
Sales of vintage LED, LCD, analog watches,
parts and gadgets -
repair tutorials & tips
Nov. 2022 - back in business!! BItter divorce is in home stretch, come grabs some great deals, I had to open the safe . . . damn attorneys. piss.