Pulsar Dress Model - Modified Module?

[abem]

Hi.

I recently bought a used Pulsar Dress model (#5408). I noticed that if you look closely through the crystal, there appears to be an "extra" resistor at the upper right (see picture attachment). I'm guessing that the module has been repaired / modified.
http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/2010 ... 0x1200.jpg

I don't really mind, since it works well and is actually brighter than a stock Pulsar, but I was curious if anyone could verify that the module has been modified.

Thanks!

-abe.

[bruce wegmann]

I have seen this identical modification on several of my Dress watches [and one or two P4s]. It is done so cleanly and uniformly that I believe it must have been done at the factory. The exact purpose is still not completely clear...I presume it is intended to eliminate unwanted interaction between the magnetic switches...but that is just a guess.

[abem]

Bruce,

Wow - I never would have guessed that. It's easy to forget that despite the beautiful exteriors, all Pulsars were works in progress.

Thanks,

-abe.

[retroleds]

You have two things modified here. The resistor: I'd agree with bruce it was an attempt to reduce switch sensitivity....I find it hard to believe it as a factory repair. Below the resistor - the light sensor has been removed and the circuit bridged/closed with a little line of solder. http://www.dwf.nu/viewtopic.php?t=2737& ... ght+sensor

Regarding those resistors and weird interaction between setting magnets and the switches - you are not crazy if you find flipping your magnet end for end changes the behavior...remember, those "D" shaped magnets have their poles set up with North and South being the top and bottom of the "D". So, particularly with Pulsars having buttons top and bottom, you will often find that when the magnet is against the lower slot it is working fine, but simply sliding it to the other slot causes mayhem - flip it end for end and all will be well. With P2?P3 watches you get the same effect - if the setting magnet is activating the button, just flip the magnet end for end, still placing the flat backbone of the "D" against the setting slot. Replacing buttons with the intermal magnet oriented incorrectly is another source of that problem, they are off-center for a reason.

[azimuth_pl]

I have the same modification in one of my P4's and it's a very clean job so I would say it's factory made. however the P4 leaflet that came with the watch from the original owner has an address and telephone number written down with a pen and it says: Pulsar Repair Service, Mr. Ratcliff :) rings a bell? :)

so this one must have been sent to Gregs father for repairs but it's hard to say if this modification was made at the factory or by the repair service.

[Greg Ratcliff]

Azimuth, What address did it give for Pulsar Repair Service? A PO box or a street address. We ran Pulsar Repair Service at 1803 Columbia Ave Lancaster ,PA 17603.
My Dad was in charge of Pulsar Production and Repair before they went out of business,and then we took over the repair end. Greg R.

[azimuth_pl]

hi Greg,
that's the one.
after closer inspection it turns out that the solder on the resistors has a different color so most likely this was done at the repair service:



btw. this one has a busted flick, does any one have a spare from a parts module?
also does any one have hints on how to remove reed switches and flick switches from the plastic without any damage?
is there a chemical that would dissolve the silicone holding the glass tubes?

[bruce wegmann]

No such thing as solvents for silicon rubbers; once they cure, that's it for keeps. I use a new, tapered Xacto blade to loosen the surrounding rubber, then a thin watch oiler to pick the pieces away from the glass. Plenty of spares from dead modules around...from start to finish, it should take less than an hour to do a change-out. The critical part is re-potting the switch; you'll need a flowable silicone to do the job [the same stuff is used to secure and shock-mount the quartz and reed switches on P2s and P3s]. I've done more than a dozen of these...no failures. Here's where a micro-tip soldering iron earns its' keep...I use a Hakko 939 with active temperature control...no better tool for the job.

[azimuth_pl]

thanks, I use the same approach but sometimes the reeds crack.
what do you think about Weller stations? these are priced equally as the Hakko.

no sense in asking you guys for one spare flick switch but put one aside when I'll get desperate in finding one. unfortunately all of my P4s work so I don't have a donor.

[bruce wegmann]

I do all the rubber removal under a microscope at 15-20X...helps keep your hand steadier.
Weller is OK for hobbyist work, but if you're repairing P4 modules, you're WAY past the hobbyist stage...also, the Hakko has active, digitally programmable temperature control at the tip. If I want, say, 628F degrees at the tip [or 331C, for our European friends], it will maintain that temperature, within a degree or two...and power-adjust the tip to compensate for heat loss during the actual soldering. You can find them on eBay remarkably cheap...I got one, brand-new in the original box with all accessories, for $80, including shipping.
Finally...UNFORTUNATELY[?!], all your P4s are working? Did you ever think you'd ever say something like that? If only such misfortune would visit itself upon me...

[azimuth_pl]

fortunately ;) sorry

[retroleds]

There actually are solvents to remove RTV silicone(the stuff used by Pulsar is an RTV type...I have some from the old "service center ), they just aren't cheap or commonly available. http://www.rpm-technology.com/?gclid=CI ... DQodAgNi-w Windshield installers need it occasionally to do some cleanup.

Regarding the soldering irons, I love the temperature controlled irons in concept and own one - all 250 watts of it. It is used for stained glass work, a hobby of mine, particularly good for leaded glass work where the difference between the connecting sonder and the lead "came"(the pieces of lead between the glass) is only about 15 degree f.(8-10 c.). I am puzzled that anyone would need one for any of our watch work ...even when using a fine tip 18 watt iron, I never find myself in contact with the work for more than .5- 1 second. On properly cleaned and fluxed metal, solder should flow virtually instantly I could definitely see it for production work though.

[Greg Ratcliff]

Azimuth, We were doing anywhere from 100 -500 repairs a week on Columbia Ave back then. Alot of it was warranty work as there was a 3 year warranty on the Pulsar watches. We had 13 of the original repair people working for us, mostly women. The men's dress I got yesterday came from one of these ladies, she's now 82 years old.