PULSAR P2 NEEDS HELP :(

[BENRUS]

Yet another Pulsar in my collection of all NON-WORKING Pulsars.
Don't laugh at my Quartz replacement solder work...It was a temporary attempt to rule out quartz replacement. I know the quartz I attached is good, but it does the same exact thing as it did before...GOOFY RANDOM READ-OUTS.
Other than warming it a little with a hairdryer (which I already did), is there any other thoughts someone might have as to what may be wrong with this module based of symptoms, and appearance?
I know there is the SASM-13 route, but I was hoping this one could be fixed.
Thanks for any help
CLICK ON IMAGES TO ENLARGE

[rewolf]

...Other than warming it a little with a hairdryer (which I already did), is there any other thoughts someone might have as to what may be wrong with this module based of symptoms, and appearance?

Did warming a little (or a lot) help?
If yes, your watch is probably suffering the "temperature compensation problem", see here: http://dwf.nu/viewtopic.php?t=1837&highlight=resistor (the images in that thread are long gone, but what member leddwatch wrote is still very interesting).

[BENRUS]

WOW...A great read indeed!
Now I'm really wondering what the pictures I'm needing to see so I may better understand whats being said look like...Every descriptive picture link is broken
Can anyone help with these old missing pictures, or post new ones?
Thanks

[BENRUS]

[/quote]Did warming a little (or a lot) help?[/quote]

It actually made the LED (what segments, and areas that did light) glow dim, and that's why I decided the original quartz might be bad...Not knowing it might have something to do with a different part of the module. I've read up a little bit on Quartz Crystals, and now know that hot, and cold do not affect the quartz in any way (at least that's what I read).
If the problem is with a different part of the module, I sure would like to see a picture of the area that has these hot, and cold sensitive parts.
If someone has fixed, or altered/replaced parts that has something to do with the mentioned area from the previous thread on this subject...Please post the pictures here.
Thanks again

[clockace]

your symptoms are very similar to the ones i had trying to fire up mine. i have some posts from may/june under 2900p2[clockace] dealing with pretty much the same thing. i did not use a hairdrier, but placed it under a 100w incandescent bulb at about 6" for 15 min or so. i also went to radio shack at ed[retroleds] suggestion and bought a 3v power pack and left it hooked ot that for a while. look at my posts and see if anything there helps. mine is now working fine, hot or cold. peter

[charger105]

Check here Gentlemen.
I asked Ed to restore the images some time ago.

http://dwf.nu/viewtopic.php?p=16274&highlight=#16274

Note that trying to bypass these resistor traces is not for the faint-hearted ! I was not successful, but plan to get back to it one day !

Rgds,
Andrew.

[BENRUS]

I had read your post before clockace, and that's what gave me some hope. I thought by doing some of the same things you did, that mine would spring to life...But it has yet to at all
Thanks charger105, here is a repost quote from that thread copied over:

General layout, note the 2 distinct sensors. I have superimposed some text, so look at this enlarged.
http://www.dwf.nu/images/HeatSensor/sensor_camera1.jpg

This shot shows where the smaller sensor exits from below the IC. I call the shot "passing to black", because the sensor is generally not at all noticible due to the black "paint" over the module face.
http://www.dwf.nu/images/HeatSensor/pas ... -black.jpg


This shot shows the wiggling line of the painted over sensor a little better http://www.dwf.nu/images/HeatSensor/Sensor_mic2.jpg

This one is a closeup of the terminating point of the smaller sensor.
http://www.dwf.nu/images/HeatSensor/Sensor_mic3.jpg

Just a closeup of the beginning of the larger sensor, under the IC. http://www.dwf.nu/images/HeatSensor/Sensor_mic4.jpg

Thanks for posting the LINK, no matter how easy it is to go back and read old posts, I always think its easier to just ask (Sorry again for starting a new thread on the same subject).
It seams by warming the module, it still makes the LED display grow dim...Which is better than staying lit? (Because it shouldn't stay lit unless button is pushed?)
I'm guessing now that the original crystal may have not been the issue at all. I'm about to put my Big-Time P4 up in auction, or for trade (with broken non-working original module) so that I can get me a perfect working P2 module. Its very frustrating for me because I'm not really a collector, I just want a nice working watch
Thanks again everyone for your help!

[BENRUS]

Well...I must say I didn't expect my module would ever come back from the dead, but it did!
It was like hot-swapping a hard drive (not hard, but tricky), and after much repeated effort, It Pulsates again
I was afraid to remove it from my wrist (just in case it cools down, & stops working), But so far its been telling the correct time for over an hour! Only time will tell now if its fixed for good.

Thanks to everyone for the great suggestions, and helpful thoughts.
I had to warm it up repeatedly, place the batteries in, and place the back & ring quickly to get this working. I found by leaving it under the hot air flow of the fan from my TV projector (while on my home-made battery pack) that when the light finally grew dim enough to almost completely disappear, then placing a magnet near the command button...It finally showed signs of normal life.


Thanks again!

[joshhorn]

I've been keeping an eye on this thread, - (Since I don't know anything about watch repair)... I found it interesting and was hoping you'd get your watch working.

Glad you did!

I hope it stays working ~ It's interesting the weird ways electronics can come to life!



Josh!

[LEDluvr]

Congrats Bernus! I hope it keeps running - keep us posted.
I tried all the tricks Ed (retroleds) and Clockace gave me for my Date II but they unfortunately didn't work. I decided to buy the SASM moudule and it's been running good for two weeks now.
It's a viable option if anyone needs it.

[bucko170]

I had a Pulsar Bigtime module that had a very similar issue - It was seemingly dead and didn't respond to new batteries, but after applying a little heat from a hair dryer it worked, set and kept accurate time, unfortunately the effect was only temporary - the watch would work for a good few hours (12 hours plus) but would ultimately fail.

I re-tried the 'heating up' process a few times and each time the module sprung to life but the eventual result was always the same and I was never able to keep it running.

Good luck with the P2, I hope it continues to work for you, it seems that some modules do just need a little loving.

[BENRUS]

Well, The follow up...
Its like keeping a FORD running, Fix Or Repair Daily

Just when you think it's fixed, Its out again!

I am opting towards a Hanno SASM-14 replacement.
Thanks again for all your help everyone, and I wish better luck to those who are having the same issues as I am.
Thanks.

[LEDluvr]

FORD indeed!

Too bad you can't get any cash for this kind of clunker.

[bucko170]

How long did it actual run for before it went 'ford' again.

[BENRUS]

How long did it actual run for before it went 'ford' again.

It would work fine for up to 5hrs at times, and sometimes as soon as it cooled down (about an hour) it was right back where I started. I left it together for almost a whole day, and it was an off, and on situation depending on the temperature (With an eventual single digit staying lit up where I had to ultimately take it apart to save the batteries from certain death).

The old module knocks off about $90.00 in cost of a replacement SASM, so technically, there is a Cash-For-Clunkers option available

[bucko170]

Similar experience to me, although once mine had cooled it remained dead until reheated again.

My SASM P2 module is in the post - although I didn't have the trade to offset the cost as the display on the original had failed

[azimuth_pl]

an opposite scenario - I have a module that works only straight after removing from the fridge. after a minute in room temperature it goes blank again
anybody from Greenland? it would work in cold climates I guess

[BENRUS]

That's funny!
What made you think to refrigerate your Pulsar?
I just bought a P2 Date Command that the Date part keeps going in and out...I am thinking it might be moisture??? I am going to gently dry it with a hairdryer and see if that can save the day for this one. I am thinking my quest to own a Pulsar has turned into an all out curse to own a WORKING PULSAR.

[azimuth_pl]

it was dead so I gave it some temperature shock by hairdrying it and refridgerating afterwards. a few cycles sometimes do help but not with this one.
it's all about physics = the temperature compensation resistors (thermistors some people call them).
it's just the same with power lines - the cables are pretty much straight in the winter whereas they get longer in the summer.
metal expands with temperature so if you heat up a module the thermistors will get longer and improve connectivity.
the module I have works the opposite way for some reason.

[SASM]

You should wear both watches on one wrist for some time. I am sure they will acclimatize each other.