For that reason, you probably cannot use the long heavy wire leads
Ahhhh....I was still struggling soldering the reads into position so I have used silver epoxy instead. Maybe I will get lucky.
Is silver epoxy ok to use, seemed easier for me to work with, just have to be patient waiting for it to set.
what's with the PULSAR logo? Not sure what that's about...should read HAMILTON, of course. I have a local guy here who's willing to try putting lettering on plastic and metal, just as a fun exercise
Same reason just having a bit fun, it's only adhesive lettering so it won't last for ever even if I wanted it to - there are to many letters in Hamilton, so I opted for Pulsar instead.
I Do Not recommend milling
Ok no milling - that's one job less
Still struggling with the soldering and there is getting less and less to solder to on the one side as the trace keeps retreating - at the moment I would be happy to see the module working and responding to the reads.
What am I doing wrong with the soldering? I am using liquid flux, and I have tried 'tinning' the leads to the read I have also removed the protective layer from the PCB. The solder seems to go on OK but comes away with the slightest knock and removes a little of the trace each time, I have not had much practice at soldering - is it just my lack of experience showing or is there something I could be doing wrong? I think using the wire to the reads would be better as there would be less pull on the joints when adjusting the reads.
................Just thinking about the lay out of the module the contacts are mirrored on each side, the trace from the one side feeds back to the contact on the opposite side - right? So if I lose the trace on one side I could solder a wire from the read to the opposite side and stretch it over to work with the other command, it might be more difficult but would give me a second chance with the soldering.