Pulsar P1 on Ebay

[Sully008]

Hope someone has deep pockets...
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Rare-Pulsar-P1-Proto ... 240%3A1308

[retroleds]

Shame they didn't photograph the inside and I wonder what they are using for power, since the original cells would obviously be dead by now. Not being a Pulsar aficionado, not sure why they claim it as a prototype.

[bruce wegmann]

It's not. He seems to be aware of the module recall, but has the strange notion that this still has the original. The boxes are nice, but the watch itself is in mediocre condition [check out the crud still in the bracelet clasp!], and is missing several links. And not sure what the blocking-the-serial-number nonsense is about, either. A $15K package [at least, the original magnet is there], maybe, but $25K?...not in this universe. BTW, I'll sit this one out; four of these is enough!

[charger105]

You can never have enough P1s Bruce

BTW, how can you tell it doesn't have the original module ? Is it the light sensor ?

Rgds,
Andrew.

[bruce wegmann]

The original module had the six-digit display, with the seconds appearing below the hours and minutes. Like later modules, the hour-min display was off while the seconds were on. There are no known examples of a fully-working first-generation P1 module [several non-working specimens do exist, however]. This latest watch has a perfectly standard re-fit module using electronics identical to the early P2s [the horizontal light-sensor below the display is the distinguishing clue; the later design has the light sensor vertical and to the right of the display, as on the P3]. And really, for the time being, at least, four P1s are quite enough...

[Planet-LED]

The light sensor has a strange appearance. And there is something over the IC-- perhaps a wire (although I can't imagine why) or gob of epoxy?

[bruce wegmann]

The lower left corner is partially covered with the black potting compound used to make the electronics moisture and corrosion-resistant. That IS a wire, and it goes to one of the setting switches [remember, the P1 had its' setting switches on the right side, not the bottom, of the module; the wiring is just a work-around to compensate for the odd geometry]. Also noticed the crystal is actually chipped; a pair of flea-bites along the upper edge, about a quarter of the way across from the right-hand corner. That took some doing...this is solid sapphire, the most damage-resisant material ever used for a watch crystal. The whole watch is a little rough; clearly, someone wore this watch every day for quite a while. Still very restorable, though.

[retroleds]

Bruce - I'm thinking slightly differently on that module. If you look at the next to last picture in that sale, that light sensor is sitting crooked, and doesn't "obviously"(at least to my eyes) have a wire below it. I'm thinking that "wire" is the edge of a blob of some clear glue, probably epoxy. I'm looking at one of the early P2 modules(swirl type contacts, no notch for a second, left-hand reed) and cant' imagine why there would be a wire at that point having anything to do with the reed switch, since the reed connects to the board at a very low point, a full 9mm away from that upper corner of the main IC. [Edit]Even with the right side reed switches for setting, a wire "overland" makes little sense, when all the contact points for the setters are board edge, with none being at a position where one would gain benefit by running around the TOP of the IC. And the "wire" ends a bit abruptly...it's just a visual artifact from some glue. IMHO Well, in any event, it's dodgy as all hell and not carrying an original P1 module. And yeah, kind of chipped up. That Sapphire can be chipped and scratched pretty good - I've got a Classic with a Sapphire laminated screen in infinitely worse shape ....owner allegedly ran a wood splitting operation and wore the watch every day for over 30 years until he gave it away to his pastor, who had me put it in a pristine Executive S.S. case BTW: Guys sharpening chain saws frequently use aluminum oxide(corundum) grinding stones. Sapphire is aluminum oxide - like scratches like.

[EDIT] It's all Steve's fault, he made me look at the pictures.....

[Planet-LED]

I'm with Ed. I know that a sapphire is extremely hard, which would make it very scratch resistant, but hard to the point of being brittle on the edges.

The watch was clearly worn for some period, but I don't think it saw hard use. Being 18K gold, there are going to be surface scratches, but there are no dings in the case, deep scratches or stretching of the bracelet.

[EDIT] Ed, I admit that it looks dodgy to run a wire over the IC, but... who was it that first mentioned epoxy??? In any event, I can live with being your scapegoat if need be.

[Rigbot]

I am the seller of the P1 on ebay and would like to address some of the comments on my watch.

I am not trying to misrepresent the watch and was describing it based on what I have been told about the watch on various forums. When I found out the auction contained errors I added to the description in an attempt to be as accurate as possible. Ebay will not allow changes to the title.

The P1 was the first production model not a prototype. This is now corrected in the auction description.

The module is the correct one for this watch but not the first model as I initially thought. The auction has been updated to reflect this. What appears to be a wire is actually the edge of the black movement sealer. I find it highly unlikely that it is not a factory job as this watch had not been used for over 20 years and as far as I know, individuals weren't repairing them that long ago. I have added two more pictures of the movement to try to show the black sealer more clearly.




I thought the horizontal light sensor indicated that the movement was the first model (of which no working examples are known) but when I found out otherwise I amended the auction description.

The watch is soldered shut how am I supposed to photograph the inside? Was that a joke?

I disagree that no P1s were melted. In fact this P1 was sold for scrap and the person I bought it from would have let it get melted if it had not been working. Many times when someone decides to sell a watch for scrap they will remove the movement to keep as parts and because most refiners will not accept watches with the movement, batteries and crystal still fitted. Once the movement is separated from the case neither has much value over scrap.

The bracelet is short and I say it in the description. Links can be found or made. Also, many of the prospective buyers for this watch already own a P1 or 18k calculator and have spare links in a drawer somewhere.

I tried to research and understand what I was selling before I listed the auction but I am no L.E.D. or Pulsar expert. A lot of the info out there on this rare model is wrong but I did my best to describe it. Also, this is all mostly a mute point as the only people who are going to buy such a watch are going to know what they are looking at and can make their own decisions. I could have listed the auction with one tiny picture and no description but it would not have been helpful to prospective buyers or me. I included MANY big clear photos that show how nice the condition is. The extreme detail ended up hurting me as people could see every scratch on the case, normally invisible flea bite on the crystal, speck of grime inside the bracelet and the "wire/epoxy" on the movement in my enhanced and lightened photo.

If four P1s is not too many, five defiantly is not too many.

This watch is not "mediocre", it sat in its original box for 20+ years and has very little use. It has been worn but not abused. Regarding the price, I will take much less than $25k. I put this price on it when I thought the movement was a working mark 1 movement. If anyone is interested in the watch make me an offer.

Thanks for your time. -Rigby rigbot@gmail.com

[fronzelneekburm]

The watch is soldered shut how am I supposed to photograph the inside? Was that a joke?