Pulsar 3013 problem

[Mister Tawny]

Well in one of my P3's there is a problem. The module will work, sort of. I can set it only using the magnet in the minute position and when I press the left hand button I get 10 0, also if I press the button too long the seconds stays on and won't turn off. I haven't tried to set the date yet because I can't get the left button to work except as noted. BTW nothing happens with a magnet in the hour area.

Is this all a switch problem or something worse? Any advice is highly appreciated.

[charger105]

Hi Mister Tawny.
You shouldn't press any buttons with the magnet in the Min slot.

The minutes should advance with magnet in the min slot.
The hours should advance with magnet in the hour slot.
With both buttons pressed and magnet in hour slot, date should advance.
With left button pressed and magnet in hour slot, month should advance.

It looks to me like the only problem is that the hour reed switch isn't activating. If this is the case, the only thing you'll be able to set is minutes. Try different orientations of the magnet in the hour slot.........twisting, rotating, angling etc. If that doesn't work, try a stronger magnet.

Also be aware that sometimes with the magnet in the recesses, the command reed switches will activate (they're quite close-by). This is probably why you get running seconds showing. You have to fiddle around to find the sweet spot that activates only the relevant setting reed .

Rgds.

[Mister Tawny]

One other question then. With no magnet in the slot when I press the right button to see the time, if I hold it for the seconds that display stays on. No magnet involved. Is the reed switch stuck maybe?

[bruce wegmann]

That's a problem I call "latching". All the reed switches used in the Pulsar watches are what are called "momentary-contact" switches, normally open. One of the leaves may be slightly magnetized, or the button magnet may be a bit on the strong side, or a combination of these two factors. I have not found a solution to this other than replacing the switch. Setting switches rarely go bad, due to the relative infrequency of use (it could even be broken; again, a rare thing, as they are potted and cushioned in silicone rubber), but it does happen. The original switches are still made by the original manufacturer, though most of their production goes into medical devices (pacemakers and the like). They can still be ordered to Pulsar specifications (with a minimum order of 100 pieces). In the meantime, replacements salvaged from unrepairable modules will do.

[Mister Tawny]

How hard is it to replace the switches? Is it something someone with basic soldering skills can do?

[bruce wegmann]

I'm inclined to say no; the orientation of the new switch is critical, and there are a lot of ways to mess this up...bad. So, unless you're very sure of the outcome, it could turn into a costly experiment.

[napnap]

Yep and Bruce is the best person to talk about costly experiments!

[retroleds]

I generally try something else before declaring the switch the issue. The buttons are a bit phallic - they have a "head" so they don't fall out of the hole. As the buttons travel in/out they pack an incredible amount of dust and dirt to the inside lip of the "hole" - where the "head" of the button is supposed to return to. My suggestion: dump some 90% isopropyl into the button and pump up/down with a tissue over it - yuck, eh? Flush again with alcohol, pump some more. When it finally seems clean, a little light electrical & plastic safe(important) lubricant can be used the same way - usually flushes out some other material that is polarized differently and the alcohol wouldn't cut through. And then try pulling the button outward(I know, not easy) - you may have to work it left/right. The buttons originally have a very fine gasket around them that was supposed to keep crud from getting past the head of the button - I suspect those gaskets sometimes scoot up the button and stop it from traveling fully, just like the crud. I've "fixed" dozens of temperamental Pulsar buttons with a good cleaning like that. The ultrasonic cleaners just don't get the crud out of those holes very well.

Most people haven't spent a lot of time looking at reed switch specs, particularly the operating range versus the release range - manufacturers are able to much better control the "operate/close" spec than the release spec. Release magnetizm has to fall well below activation magnetism for most reeds, frequently considerably lower. In some cases release magnetism has to fall to 1/20-1/30 of what is needed to CLOSE the same reed.

Second thing to try, since the reed obviously closes correctly - Hi-mu shunt. Important you use hi-mu metal (nickel & molybdenum) as regular steel will work but after a few weeks will be magnetized itself, causing issues. A shunt with a hole in it only blocks the magnetism when the button is the farthest away - when the button is pushed you still get over 95% of the unshunted magnetism (gauss) at the reed switch. It just falls off quicker with a shunt.